Checking Intake Manifold Fit After Resurfacing Heads

1970 TA said
What techniques do you builders use to check for proper fit of the intake manifold?
I've read of a method using plumbers solder taped to the intake gasket in several places and measuring the crush on the solder. Might try this.
What about using Dykem / bluing on the intake gaskets to check port alignment?

I am trying to visualize the crush of just solder strips without gaskets in a vee interface and am thinking this might be inaccurate if you don't very carefully put equal torque on each bolt; it seems too easy to push the intake off one side or the other. Witht he gaskets, I think I would get some very thin electronics solder; plumbers solder seems to thick.
I set the intake on the gaskets, look at how well the holes align without being torqued, the head holes should be near the bottom edges of the intake's holes. Then I use a feeler gauge to see how evenly the gaps are front to back on each side, and then poked into the upper and lower edges at each end to see how even the gap is top to bottom. A good eye will pick up some variations too. Not sure that this is the best way to do it.

1970 TA said
When I checked piston to head clearance (flat tops with chamfered OD), at max travel the piston hits the edge of the open chamber. Am I correct in thinking that the piston to head clearance will not change since the piston will hit the edge of the chamber in the same place, but the piston to valve clearance will be reduced?

This is odd sounding.... sounds like you have pistons like the Speed Pro L2316's... what pistons DO you have? Is this without a head gasket in-between head and block? Even then, this sounds odd... How much has the deck been cut so far, if any? Standard early 340 pistons stick around .018" above the deck and the open chambers should clear around them.

1970 TA said
Any other things to check?

Not sure how to answer this....