Transmission mechanic in San Jose, CA.

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GREEN DART 5

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I'm looking for a mechanic to go through a Craigslist A833. Tag says it was born 11/1966. It spins freely but I noticed the front bearing retainer had cracks at the bolt holes. Thanks FABO!!
 
I'm looking for a mechanic to go through a Craigslist A833. Tag says it was born 11/1966. It spins freely but I noticed the front bearing retainer had cracks at the bolt holes. Thanks FABO!!
I think the front retainers a pretty easy replacement. It's just those four bolts comes off and you can put a new one on. The front shaft should have a little play in it also input shaft that is. It's only $100 for the rebuild kit and let's just bearings and seals. It's pretty much a no-brainer to rebuild there's no tolerances and you can't get it wrong, almost. If you're planning on taking it out and putting it in then you've done all the grunt work. Don't give away the easy work to somebody to throw it on their bench and replace the bearings.
 
I think the front retainers a pretty easy replacement. It's just those four bolts comes off and you can put a new one on. The front shaft should have a little play in it also input shaft that is. It's only $100 for the rebuild kit and let's just bearings and seals. It's pretty much a no-brainer to rebuild there's no tolerances and you can't get it wrong, almost. If you're planning on taking it out and putting it in then you've done all the grunt work. Don't give away the easy work to somebody to throw it on their bench and replace the bearings.


I read your reply last night and started doing homework.... Read a couple of "how to's" and finally ordered a factory manual (I should've already had). Brewers has the front retainer and a rebuild kit. I'm sure I will be posting questions, since this will be the first transmission I've ever gone through. Thanks for the advice!!!!
 
I read your reply last night and started doing homework.... Read a couple of "how to's" and finally ordered a factory manual (I should've already had). Brewers has the front retainer and a rebuild kit. I'm sure I will be posting questions, since this will be the first transmission I've ever gone through. Thanks for the advice!!!!
That's where I got my rebuild kit and there helpful. I spent the extra money while I was in there and put new brass synchros- (×4 $50?) Actually was able to get a few other things like replace my brass shift forks with steel ones for a stronger upgrade. Also even got the little shifter knobs that come out of the case that hook onto the ears and got new ears as well. All this tightened up the linkage quite a bit when I went to put it back together. I did buy probably three or four hundred dollars worth the extra parts from the $700 I saved from someone putting in the $100 rebuild kit.
 
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Also we're here for you. Too many people have done this too many times on the Forum. There's way too much advice here as long as you have just a little bit of space and a little bit of time you'll be fine.
 
Just a side note. Depending on what you want- you can do this yourself or there is a guy here in SJ that builds racing 4-speeds. For Mopars, he upgrades to stronger synchros and better detents, stronger shift forks, etc. His trannys shift better and are stronger. If you want to go this route I can get you in touch.
 
Just a side note. Depending on what you want- you can do this yourself or there is a guy here in SJ that builds racing 4-speeds. For Mopars, he upgrades to stronger synchros and better detents, stronger shift forks, etc. His trannys shift better and are stronger. If you want to go this route I can get you in touch.
Stronger synchros? And I'm pretty sure you can put steel shift Forks in there just taking the cover off the side without even taking it out of the car? Also make sure that he wants a full race crash box 4 Speed that you can barely drive on the street.
 
Just a side note. Depending on what you want- you can do this yourself or there is a guy here in SJ that builds racing 4-speeds. For Mopars, he upgrades to stronger synchros and better detents, stronger shift forks, etc. His trannys shift better and are stronger. If you want to go this route I can get you in touch.
Thank you!! If I do choose that route I will PM you.
 
Thank you!! If I do choose that route I will PM you.
What kind of car is it going in what are your intentions what motor do you have what kind of rear end gears do you have? And what kind of rear end? And all that good stuff?
 
What kind of car is it going in what are your intentions what motor do you have what kind of rear end gears do you have? And what kind of rear end? And all that good stuff?
It's going in a '71 Dart. Stock 318 with a 3.55 sure grip 8 3/4 rearend.... I've got a 360 waiting for a rebuild, hopeful for 325-350hp.
 
It's going in a '71 Dart. Stock 318 with a 3.55 sure grip 8 3/4 rearend.... I've got a 360 waiting for a rebuild, hopeful for 325-350hp.
That's the same setup as I had when I started racing my 73 Duster. 318 4- speed 355's I was able to get it to a 13.7.
 
That's the same setup as I had when I started racing my 73 Duster. 318 4- speed 355's I was able to get it to a 13.7.
Thats Awesome!!! My car originally came automatic with 3.23 open rearend and not running. I'm really hoping for a lot of fun with my new set up.

First question--- The pilot bushing that came with my McLeod clutch is slightly larger than my drilled crank. Should I have a shop machine the bushing down? Does Napa sell one that will fit? Or put in the roller bearing? I think my 318 is from 1984.
 
Thats Awesome!!! My car originally came automatic with 3.23 open rearend and not running. I'm really hoping for a lot of fun with my new set up.

First question--- The pilot bushing that came with my McLeod clutch is slightly larger than my drilled crank. Should I have a shop machine the bushing down? Does Napa sell one that will fit? Or put in the roller bearing? I think my 318 is from 1984.
My car came with an automatic and not running and an open 7 1/4 rear end. I didn't use the automatic or the 7 1/4 rear end when I first got the car and put the four speed in right away and a 8 and a quarter with 3:55 when I first got it. Get the roller bearing.
 
Don't spend your money on expensive clutches. A heavy duty AutoZone clutch will be plenty.
 
I'm looking for a mechanic to go through a Craigslist A833. Tag says it was born 11/1966. It spins freely but I noticed the front bearing retainer had cracks at the bolt holes. Thanks FABO!!


Jamie Passon's new 833 book just hit the shelves. It reportedly goes into great detail on the inner workings. You may feel very comfortable doing it yourself after reading that.
 
I like that Dodge made it eazy to replace the third member in the 8 3/4 rearend.

I bought the McLeod clutch last year on Black Friday, so it wasn’t too bad. But since then, I learned that Autozone HD and Napa are good clutches.

Live and learn!!!

Brewers just sent me a confirmation email..... I ordered the rebuild kit, synchros, and new front retainer.

Hopefully starting this rebuild in the next 2 weeks!!!!
 
Jamie Passon's new 833 book just hit the shelves. It reportedly goes into great detail on the inner workings. You may feel very comfortable doing it yourself after reading that.

Thank you!!! I’m going to look for it and buy it. I like everything Passon has to offer!!!
 
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We're absolutely definitely not dealing with an overdrive correct?
Nope it’s not an overdrive...

The only extra part I ordered were the synchros... I wanted those to be new.

I opened up the side cover and saw a lot of rust... I’m sure after tearing into it I’ll have another order of parts...
 
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Nope it’s not an overdrive...

The only extra part I ordered were the synchros... I wanted those to be new.

I opened up the side cover and saw a lot of rust... I’m sure after tearing into it I’ll have another order of parts...
Okay rust is not good! I always advise getting things apart before making any orders just because places as great as Brewer's is just can't offer the free shipping that places like Summit does. So it's nice to get it all in one order $ wise. You lived and learned on the clutch. You don't want to live and learn on too much! LOL
So the manual was a good choice and what you read it a couple times dive into this thing and open it up. Just be as careful as you can things are going to Clank a little bit to try to do as little as possible. And hopefully someone will chime in on how to possibly hopefully hopefully get those gears cleaned up correctly. I wouldn't go doing anything right quickly to the gears until you get some good info on how to care for them if they're saveable.
 
When I pull in the picture the best I can it doesn't look too bad really. And those brass shift Forks they just pull out and you just push the steel ones in and replace them no big deal if you're into that upgrade which I did. I mean I was in there LOL and saving all this money for having someone else do it. When I did this everybody who was helping me make sure to tell me to be extremely extremely careful with those brass synchros if they're dropped or put out of around there toast.
 
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