ANY AUTOCROSS RACERS
Mattax has it right, the construction of the QA1 arms make it look like they’re at a different angle than they really are. But they still use the factory lower ball joint and still have the same torsion bar socket/lever so you can check the right height the same way as factory. What you're looking for is the ball joint and the torsion bar lever to be at the same, or close to the same height. When that happens the camber and bump steer curves are about as good as they get. And it actually looks like you're pretty close to that. The other thing is, a small difference isn't the end of the world either. What shows up on a suspension program and what you actually notice driving the car can be a little different, most folks won't notice small changes in the geometry as far as a camber curve is concerned.
Per the factory method, you should be ending up at an "A"- "B" difference close to 0 for ideal geometry with modern tires and alignment specs. A-bodies are the "V and L" line.
Your car, with a line between the bottom of the adjusting blade and the ball joint housing. It's a bit of a guess because you can't see the bottom of the adjusting blade, but, it should be pretty close. The green line should follow the bottom of the LCA (I also have QA1's, so, I know a little about their shape). The red line is horizontal, and it intersects the bottom of the ball joint and where the bottom of the adjusting blade should be. So, I think your car is pretty close. Measure per the factory instructions and see what that A-B difference is, that will tell you for sure. The other thing is, look at the UCA's. They're also pretty close to horizontal. If the car is where you want it, I'd leave it.
Mattax has it right, the construction of the QA1 arms make it look like they’re at a different angle than they really are. But they still use the factory lower ball joint and still have the same torsion bar socket/lever so you can check the right height the same way as factory. What you're looking for is the ball joint and the torsion bar lever to be at the same, or close to the same height. When that happens the camber and bump steer curves are about as good as they get. And it actually looks like you're pretty close to that. The other thing is, a small difference isn't the end of the world either. What shows up on a suspension program and what you actually notice driving the car can be a little different, most folks won't notice small changes in the geometry as far as a camber curve is concerned.
Per the factory method, you should be ending up at an "A"- "B" difference close to 0 for ideal geometry with modern tires and alignment specs. A-bodies are the "V and L" line.
Your car, with a line between the bottom of the adjusting blade and the ball joint housing. It's a bit of a guess because you can't see the bottom of the adjusting blade, but, it should be pretty close. The green line should follow the bottom of the LCA (I also have QA1's, so, I know a little about their shape). The red line is horizontal, and it intersects the bottom of the ball joint and where the bottom of the adjusting blade should be. So, I think your car is pretty close. Measure per the factory instructions and see what that A-B difference is, that will tell you for sure. The other thing is, look at the UCA's. They're also pretty close to horizontal. If the car is where you want it, I'd leave it.
