ANY AUTOCROSS RACERS
Nope. Re-clocking the bars does not change the position of the LCA at ride height. Your ride height is set by the angle of the LCA- it locates the lower ball joint, which locates the spindle, which locates the wheel. If you remove the torsion bars completely, that's still true. The angle of the LCA sets the ride height, and the angle of the LCA is only limited by the bumpstops/frame.
If you reclock the torsion bars, all you're doing is changing the angle of the LCA with respect to the torsion bar hexes. It does not change the range of travel of the suspension (still bump stop to bump stop), and it does not change the angle of the LCA at a given ride height. All it does is change the range of adjustment on the torsion bar adjusters. You might not be able to put the car at the ride height you want because the adjuster doesn't have enough range, but that doesn't change the angle of the LCA at the ride height you want.
Here's something else to consider-
Your LCA's are the new design for the QA1's, they have the included bump stop. Like this...
Mine are the old design. They don't have a bump stop at all. With the older design, the LCA has a shorter profile than the stock LCA's. Meaning, you actually add travel to the suspension because the LCA can go up further on compression before it hits the frame.
So what that means is that at the same ride height, my car will have more suspension travel left. You have some options if you want to address this. It looks to me like you're actually running a bump stop that's 11/16" tall, like the one's in the first picture I posted. These are those stops- Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9121G. If you swap them out for ones that are shorter, .375" to be exact, you will pick up some travel without raising the car. These are the stops I use, the difference is pretty obvious Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9132G
The other option would be to take the bump stop, and the mounting boss, completely off the LCA. The mounting boss under the bump stop on the new LCA's looks like it's at least a good 3/8" tall. Of course, that would mean modifying your brand new LCA's, which you may not want to do. But you can see the new design already has a more robust gusset than the old design that I have. Removing the bump stop mount, assuming you leave the gusset intact, shouldn't hurt the strength of the LCA. Then, you could just relocate the bump stop onto the frame. Since my QA1 LCA's didn't have bump stops, I added one to the frame stop. You can also see my modified upper bumpstop in this picture. I use one of these Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9136G, and I even run a spacer under that.
Here's my car, and the bumpstop I use. This isn't at ride height, it's on jack stands in this one (full extension). I thought I had one at ride height with the new LCA's but it doesn't look like I do, I'll take one later.
Nope. Re-clocking the bars does not change the position of the LCA at ride height. Your ride height is set by the angle of the LCA- it locates the lower ball joint, which locates the spindle, which locates the wheel. If you remove the torsion bars completely, that's still true. The angle of the LCA sets the ride height, and the angle of the LCA is only limited by the bumpstops/frame.
If you reclock the torsion bars, all you're doing is changing the angle of the LCA with respect to the torsion bar hexes. It does not change the range of travel of the suspension (still bump stop to bump stop), and it does not change the angle of the LCA at a given ride height. All it does is change the range of adjustment on the torsion bar adjusters. You might not be able to put the car at the ride height you want because the adjuster doesn't have enough range, but that doesn't change the angle of the LCA at the ride height you want.
Here's something else to consider-
Your LCA's are the new design for the QA1's, they have the included bump stop. Like this...
Mine are the old design. They don't have a bump stop at all. With the older design, the LCA has a shorter profile than the stock LCA's. Meaning, you actually add travel to the suspension because the LCA can go up further on compression before it hits the frame.
So what that means is that at the same ride height, my car will have more suspension travel left. You have some options if you want to address this. It looks to me like you're actually running a bump stop that's 11/16" tall, like the one's in the first picture I posted. These are those stops- Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9121G. If you swap them out for ones that are shorter, .375" to be exact, you will pick up some travel without raising the car. These are the stops I use, the difference is pretty obvious Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9132G
The other option would be to take the bump stop, and the mounting boss, completely off the LCA. The mounting boss under the bump stop on the new LCA's looks like it's at least a good 3/8" tall. Of course, that would mean modifying your brand new LCA's, which you may not want to do. But you can see the new design already has a more robust gusset than the old design that I have. Removing the bump stop mount, assuming you leave the gusset intact, shouldn't hurt the strength of the LCA. Then, you could just relocate the bump stop onto the frame. Since my QA1 LCA's didn't have bump stops, I added one to the frame stop. You can also see my modified upper bumpstop in this picture. I use one of these Energy Suspension Bump Stops 9.9136G, and I even run a spacer under that.
Here's my car, and the bumpstop I use. This isn't at ride height, it's on jack stands in this one (full extension). I thought I had one at ride height with the new LCA's but it doesn't look like I do, I'll take one later.
