318 stalls in Drive
AJ, thank you so much for taking the time to post all that. I have done what you said. Until I got to this part: And don't be clipping coils off the spring;that will really mess things up. Go find a similar spring with less pressure and clip coils off that one until it is the same length,then recheck it's calibration.
Finding suitable springs for a 2 bbl is difficult. I have the AFB spring re-cal. kit but those springs will not work in the 2bbl. I think I'll print what you wrote and take it out to the truck and 'tinker' a bit. Transfer slots were set to "square". I've turned the idle speed up 1/2 turn from that to keep the engine idling.
If you're only 1/2 turn up from square,and your timing is about 18*, and you have this problem, then something is mechanically wrong. First get a second witness to the rpm. Then I'll bet it's getting way too much idle-fuel. Pull a couple of plugs and see what's going on in there. While the plugs are out, do a compression test. If any are more than 15 psi lower than the average, then do a LeakDown test as well.If the leakdown test shows less than six or 8 psi,then check the cam-timing.Or at least check where split overlap is occurring, which is pretty easy to ball-park.
If you have metering rods,
they HAVE to stay down at at idle, and probably up to about 1/2 throttle . If you have to, just pull the spring out.You can still drive to about 30/40mph using a very small amount of pedal.
If there are two consecutively firing cylinders sucking air at the intake ports..... like 5 and 7....., well that could cause a stalling
Another thing to do is get the rear wheels off the ground. With the engine running,and the trans in manual low, ride the brake pedal to slow the engine down to about 600/550.Let the rpm stabilize for a couple of seconds.The engine should be happily rumpidy rumping, and it should not take a lot of brake to get there.After 2 or 3 seconds,apply the brake to stop the rear wheels. If it stalls, throw that TC away.
