Giving Up?

Don't get mired in complications. Always point back to basics.

1...If necessary pull the clutch/ flywheel/ disk and put them in a press or have it done, jig it up and make CERTAIN that the PP is actually capable of releasing the clutch

2...Transmission shaft bind............Is the bell/ transmission shaft centered on the engine? Is the shaft binding in the pilot? Is the pilot hole DEEP ENOUGH? Is the input shaft BEND, or damaged in such a way that it would "drag" on the pilot bushing?

3...Clutch splines. Make CERTAIN you have the correct disk installed correct side out. Make CERTAIN the splines / collar are not interfering with the T/O bearing or the hub

4...Pivot / fork........Make sure the fork is not cracked / damaged/ bending under pressure. Have another person press the clutch and watch movement

5...Same above with linkage / Z bar. I've had TWO Z bars crack at the tube over the years, and so they "lose movement" when worked. Again..........two people and watch movement

6....Do a search "Oldmanmopar" He had some photos the difference in the 340/ non 340 cars pivot on the pedals assy. The 340 clutch pedal provides a bit more throw than "non" (at least in some years)

7....I just don't know about ram clutches. ARE THEY quality? Had member on here complaining that his fingers would press against the TO at high RPM and cause very high pedal pressure. This sounds like some sort of "Chineseoizationization" to me or at least wrong / poor quality assembly at the manufacturer