Changing motor mounts with engine in car

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demon322

demon322

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71 with the buscuit mounts. Rubber part split almost in two. Can this be (somewhat) easily changed with the engine still in the car? Just unbolt both sides from k member and try to lift engine enough to get to those bolts? It’s the passenger side mount if that matters. Thanks.
 
Yep. Take the distributor cap off so you don't break it. I used to take the battery out but you can do it with it in. I just like stuff out of my way.

Then take the nuts off the bottom of the mount from underneath. Put a 2x4 under the pan and jack the engine up far enough to clear the K member and unbolt the mounts from the block. Change out the biscuit and reverse the process.

IMHO... I'd use solid steel motor mounts instead of rubber. Rubber fails. And I've never felt vibration from using solid mounts. Just another reason for me to detest the spool mount K member.
 
yellow rose said:
Yep. Take the distributor cap off so you don't break it. I used to take the battery out but you can do it with it in. I just like stuff out of my way.

Then take the nuts off the bottom of the mount from underneath. Put a 2x4 under the pan and jack the engine up far enough to clear the K member and unbolt the mounts from the block. Change out the biscuit and reverse the process.

IMHO... I'd use solid steel motor mounts instead of rubber. Rubber fails. And I've never felt vibration from using solid mounts. Just another reason for me to detest the spool mount K member.
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Thanks! That doesn’t sound too bad. I did think it might be easier to remove the bracket and all from the block and just swap the buiscit from there so glad you confirmed that.

I have often thought of going with steel mounts and most likely will for sure after this. I just happen to have a new rubber mount in the box here and need the car moving by in the morning. Will definitely look into ordering some solid mounts. Was something like this what you had in mind?

5DB689E4-ED5C-44A8-8B93-C1123551E7D5.jpeg
 
demon322 said:
Thanks! That doesn’t sound too bad. I did think it might be easier to remove the bracket and all from the block and just swap the buiscit from there so glad you confirmed that.

I have often thought of going with steel mounts and most likely will for sure after this. I just happen to have a new rubber mount in the box here and need the car moving by in the morning. Will definitely look into ordering some solid mounts. Was something like this what you had in mind?

View attachment 1715179800
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That's the one right there. Bullet proof. But...I do know people who can break a bowling ball in a sand box with no tools so I've given up the notion that there is a real bullet proof.
 
yellow rose said:
That's the one right there. Bullet proof. But...I do know people who can break a bowling ball in a sand box with no tools so I've given up the notion that there is a real bullet proof.
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Lol I hear that. Well I for sure will order a set of these then. I believe it said like 44 bucks for the pair or so. Not too bad at all. Now. Out to the shop to attempt the swap.

Thanks for the info!
 
Probably more stable to unbolt and lift one side at a time if you can move ti over far enough. Be careful to support the engine well with you hands and arms in there...
 
Let us know how your frame is holding up 6 months down the road. Keep us posted. :)
 
72Dart6pack said:
Let us know how your frame is holding up 6 months down the road. Keep us posted. :)
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Who is this in reference to? Are you suggesting the solid mounts will hurt the frame somehow? Just looking for some clarification.
 
There is a reason why the factory went with rubber mounts. It's your car. Good luck!
 
'67-72 A-Body Products

look half-way down the page, part number TQA.
They are sold through mancini if i recall.

I installed one in my 66 with the poly loc mounts. Its plenty solid given my TTI's havent kissed my torsion bars yet, and they only have 3/16 of an inch clearance.

This way you wont trash your frame rails and subframe in time as mentioned above.
 
I think what he means is that the rubber is meant to absorb vibrations instead of your K-frame/frame rails. These will eventually form stress cracks, especially if you haven't re-welded/reinforced the K-frame/frame rails etc...
 
demon322 said:
Who is this in reference to? Are you suggesting the solid mounts will hurt the frame somehow? Just looking for some clarification.
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I've been using solid mounts since 1980. Never seen an broken frame from them. That's just rediculous.

The factory used rubber because it was CHEAPER. That's all.
 
I have run one solid mount on the drivers side on multiple cars for decades, no issues.
 
I put solid mounts in one time. Drove about 15 miles and took them back out. Rattled the **** out of the car. So what I did was put the rubber mounts back in but used one longer bolt on the drivers side and put a short piece of chain from it to the frame bolt. That way the engine can move but when you get on it the chain pulls tight and holds the torque and doesn't break the mount. I drive my car hard and have done many a burn out and haven't broken a mount in years.
 
I guess a torque strap will stress the frame and k member to. I have been running solid mounts for years no issues.
 
A torque strap will only stress the frame and block for a very short amount of time when it's needed. Solid mounts will the whole time the engine is running.
 
demon322 said:
71 with the buscuit mounts. Rubber part split almost in two. Can this be (somewhat) easily changed with the engine still in the car? Just unbolt both sides from k member and try to lift engine enough to get to those bolts? It’s the passenger side mount if that matters. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You can always use the broken one you already have and run a 3/8" bolt through it and bolt it back up. Best of both worlds- vibration dampening and torque limiting.
 
mopowers said:
You can always use the broken one you already have and run a 3/8" bolt through it and bolt it back up. Best of both worlds- vibration dampening and torque limiting.
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Yea, kinda like some Chevy small block motor mounts are. They worked good.
 
its a 3 point mount, 2 motors and a trans. Someone once told me that if you ran solids, you have to run them everywhere so everything is tied in to the chassis/unibody/whatever. If you ran 1 on the torque side, that will eventually crack the ears or the mount as the motor is still going to flex on the rubber side and all that will be magnified via leverage onto the solid side. I have run solids on a warm Cleveland and didnt feel the vibes were all that bad. Whats the advantage besides not breaking the rubber over time? That is why machinery is on isolators even when bolted to the ground. What do they say about palm trees? They give a little and can weather a storm where as a rigid tree will break or fall over.
 
20 + years on solid mounts here with no issues. street car, driven a lot.
 
yellow rose said:
Yep. Take the distributor cap off so you don't break it. I used to take the battery out but you can do it with it in. I just like stuff out of my way.

Then take the nuts off the bottom of the mount from underneath. Put a 2x4 under the pan and jack the engine up far enough to clear the K member and unbolt the mounts from the block. Change out the biscuit and reverse the process.

IMHO... I'd use solid steel motor mounts instead of rubber. Rubber fails. And I've never felt vibration from using solid mounts. Just another reason for me to detest the spool mount K member.
Click to expand...

Like said, use a solid motor mounts if you have some power and a lead foot.

*For instance , mounts that sag... eat up header clearance to the suspension*
 
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