valiant driver suspension
Use all the 73 stuff but don't and I mean don't use the lower poly bushings. Use the factory rubber and tighten the nuts on all of the control arms while holding the suspension at ride height before you crank the torsion bars. Tightening them while the suspension is hanging will cause the bushings to rip off of the sleeves on the first hard dip in the road.
The poly bushings float inside the original bushing sleeves that is why you leave them in for the poly bushing install. The problem with that is the arm will float front and rear causing the car to wonder at higher speeds. The torsion bar clips do not stop this movement.
My son and I are trying to come up with a bearing install to free up the lift on a launch. But we are going to use a snap ring with a torington surface bearing and a bolt.
The factory bushings last a long time if installed properly in the arm and then adjusted correctly when replacing the arms. The adjustable struts are good. We used hymned joints they thread right on but tabs must be welded to the K-member
This k- member will be used on our new build. It was cut for ease to work on the motor in the car. Note the 73 steering linkage It is a better set up . It will be dropped by lengthening the pitman and idler. This straightens the tie rods and you get less movement and drag of the toe on a launch and pull through the 1/4.
Don't get me wrong some of the new K-members with racks are superior. But the cost here is far less because they are factory used parts being modified at your garage.
Use all the 73 stuff but don't and I mean don't use the lower poly bushings. Use the factory rubber and tighten the nuts on all of the control arms while holding the suspension at ride height before you crank the torsion bars. Tightening them while the suspension is hanging will cause the bushings to rip off of the sleeves on the first hard dip in the road.
The poly bushings float inside the original bushing sleeves that is why you leave them in for the poly bushing install. The problem with that is the arm will float front and rear causing the car to wonder at higher speeds. The torsion bar clips do not stop this movement.
My son and I are trying to come up with a bearing install to free up the lift on a launch. But we are going to use a snap ring with a torington surface bearing and a bolt.
The factory bushings last a long time if installed properly in the arm and then adjusted correctly when replacing the arms. The adjustable struts are good. We used hymned joints they thread right on but tabs must be welded to the K-member
This k- member will be used on our new build. It was cut for ease to work on the motor in the car. Note the 73 steering linkage It is a better set up . It will be dropped by lengthening the pitman and idler. This straightens the tie rods and you get less movement and drag of the toe on a launch and pull through the 1/4.
Don't get me wrong some of the new K-members with racks are superior. But the cost here is far less because they are factory used parts being modified at your garage.
