1...You can set the timing with a light "on the starter" If you have a light I highly suggest this because it should produce a nice "even rhythum" of spark, and might show up a problem, like a flakey pickup/ reluctor
2...If you don't have a light STATIC time it. I assume you have Mopar breakerless?
You MUST determine if the no1 is "ready to fire" (compression stroke) or not
There is only two ways to do this.....
A.....If either valve cover is off for any reason, rotate the engine so the timing marks are on TDC then look at no 1 or no6 valves. They will either be "both closed" or "both a little open." If there is any question, rotate the engine back and forth (wrench) and if both valves immediately move, THEY ARE OPEN (split overlap)
Whichever set of valves is closed THAT cylinder is ready to fire
B......The other method is remove no1 plug, stick your finger in, and bump the engine til you feel compression. Stop, look for the marks "coming up" and wrench the engine so the marks ARE NOT on TDC, but rather "where you want timing" AKA 10--15 BTC depending, stock engine, or hot cam
NOW THE ENGINE IS ready to be timed
Set the dist in so the rotor is pointing to the no1 tower, or wherever the rotor points, put no1 wire IN that tower. Now rotate the dist. body CW (retard) and slowly bring back until the reluctor is centered in the pickkup coil core
Alternatively, you can turn on the key and "wiggle" the dist. back and forth across the pickup and "feel" for the spark with a tester
AT THIS POINT the timing should be close enough to RUN
Forget fuel. Assume it's stale. Use FRESH gas. Make sure the plugs are new or DRY Throw a little gas down it it should FIRE. About a tablespoon
=================================
SPARK TESTING. I always test right at the coil tower with a SOLID wire and something like a test gap. The system should produce an nice hot spark at least 3/8" and more typical, 1/2" long, hot and blue
==================================
WHEN CRANKING............If you crank using a jumper at the starter relay, you get a WEAKER spark than when using the key, because the coil is going through the ballast resistor. the bypass circuit in the ignition switch is NOT ACTIVE under these conditons
So if you are careful, you can jumper 12V direct to the coil, but do NOT leave that connected very long, only while trying to start
Inspect the reluctor/ pickup for rust, debri, strike damage. Check the dist shaft for play (bushings) and wobble. Check the cap and rotor, the cap for dirt, moisture, wear, material migration from the contacts, it should be CLEAN. Check the rotor for spark "punch through" to the shaft. THIS HAPPENS, but not very often
