Full Length Car Ramps

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75slant6

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So the past few days I’ve been thinking of a way to be able to work under my cars easier until I can someday install a lift. Well, I think I may have found the solution. I’m thinking about making something similar to this but with a few changes.
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A few changes I would make is to make the whole thing longer. Like maybe have the horizontal part 14’ instead of 12’ and make the approach ramps 10-12’ instead of 8’ to offer a more gradual slope. I would also add tabs that would allow me to pin the sections together for more peace of mind/safety. Another idea is make the section between the front and rear wheels where they could be removed once the car is in place to make it easier to work in those areas, however, at 20” tall, a creeper would easily fit under the side sections if they were built like these. I would probably add some diagonal bracing in the sections under the wheels though.

Here’s the entire blog with all the details how he built them.
Another Day Another Project: Building My Car Ramp

Have any of y’all built anything similar to this? I’m open to ideas/suggestions
 
I would also add diagonals to those uprights. If you get my meaning.
 
I would also add diagonals to those uprights. If you get my meaning.
I think this is how I would build it. The ramps would be 3 4’ sections as well but everything would have tabs welded on them that all the different sections would be pinned together so they couldn’t slip while driving on or off. I’d also predrill holes in the top that removable wheel stops could be bolted/pinned in place for either 108” or 111” wheelbase cars.

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I do NOT like the lack of diagonal bracing either left right or front/ rear. When you pull onto a ramp and apply the brakes the car "jerks" and this imparts a TREMENDOUS amount of force (inertia) to the ramps. I do that all the time driving a car onto the trailer. You have to use a bit of power to get "up" the ramps, and then say, unfamiliar with the vehicle, you stop a bit ubruptly. The entire trailer/ tow rig jerks to and fro.

Sounds to me like you are thinking this through "make it safe!!"
 
One thing to consider is the height. Its nice to have the car up in the air but you have to be able to comfortably reach everything.
 
only cheaper if you do not need a car hauler
but i see how there could be some braces in the way

still, no point in reinventing the wheel, a lot of times you can can repurpose stuff for cheaper/less trouble then starting from scratch
(of course, not always)

rip a few boards out of these and yer done (until the wife sees the boards, and decides you should build a new deck)

Flat bed trailer
 
Problem with starting with a trailer is it’d have to be dirt cheap. I’m figuring it shouldn’t cost more than $500-600 to build the ramps. He had $430 in the set in the link but that was in 2011 and mine would be longer (giggle)
 
Those might fit the bill
Only downside I see is that the car will not sit level
 
Those might fit the bill
Only downside I see is that the car will not sit level

That and I liked the idea of the original "sectional" idea. Keep in mind these will very quickly get out of hand for weight, if you "ever" have to move them!!
 
may I suggest a winch and aluminum ramps from harbor freight, lowe's, home depot, tractor supply, etc. the ramp are light and come in a few different widths. the winch comes in handy for the above mentioned reasons and really handy if the car doesn't run for some odd reason.
 
may I suggest a winch and aluminum ramps from harbor freight, lowe's, home depot, tractor supply, etc. the ramp are light and come in a few different widths. the winch comes in handy for the above mentioned reasons and really handy if the car doesn't run for some odd reason.
A winch is something that I would very likely add at some point. The aluminum ramps might not be a bad idea either. Easier to handle to get out of the way once the car is on the “rack”
 
Those might fit the bill
Only downside I see is that the car will not sit level
Yea I’d highly prefer the car sit level since the reason I started thinking about this in the first place is I need to check my driveline angles and my car sits pretty low so I may need to get it up on some 2x10s or something.

Another thing I would really like to try to integrate is a way to jack the front or rear of the car up for brake work, wheel bearings, etc. I guess I could just get a pair of semi jack stands for that
 
I guess one BIG plus to this would be the fact that you can use the trailer jack to raise or lower the tongue to get the deck perfectly level. Dang it. Now you got me second guessing this. Lol
There are more upsides that that setup then that
For starters, think of how easy it will be to move that around the shop, compared to 700 pound ramps
Even bringing it home is a one man job
 
I don't disagree with the diagonal bracing. But, I think that it won't do much good to only do the sections under the wheels. Only as strong as it's weakest link. I'm guessing that will limit your creeper access. You might want to use gusset plates in the upper corners in lieu of full cross braces; that would leave your access open.
 
I would also add diagonals to those uprights. If you get my meaning.
If you get my leaning...! Yeah, I would not trust my welds to that, but that's me and my $50 welder.

I have 10" high Rhino ramps and if I get 2 more, I can get the car up 15 inches to the floorboards. And they weigh 6 lbs a piece. Drive up the fronts and jack/slide the backs under the tires. This is just because I cant structurally weld....
 
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If you get my leaning...! Yeah, I would not trust my welds to that, but that's me and my $50 welder.

I have 10" high Rhino ramps and if I get 2 more, I can get the car up 15 inches to the floorboards. And they weigh 6 lbs a piece. Drive up the fronts and jack/slide the backs under the tires. This is just because I cant structurally weld....
You have a very good point here. I’d have to do quite a bit of other welding before I’d be comfortable welding these myself
 
Stability is of the utmost importance! Proper tube size and thickness, definitely use gusset plates and cross bracing. Tie the LH and RH together so they don't separate under loads. This is a chassis jig and rotisserie I made, the jig is 2x2x .120 and note the gussets at all connections. The triangle gussets yield more strength with less welding and heat distortion. It's not bad to move around either. You can add a channel to the inside and have a C-channel on rollers (like for a gate) that rides full length and then use bottle jacks on the C-channel. Basically a alignment rack.

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