318 Won't Start? And I tested as much as I could I think?
Well, I've used Gas to start fires before so it defiantly can burn. As for the current fuel it's in a brand new tank and some was taken out to check and it was crystal clear.
Another guy I know is helping and it is running, but very rough. He re-adjusted a bit more and the whole carb on the bench, and found the float too high, pump vent (to much travel), as well as a diaphragm only popping in and out instantly, on top of that the choke temperature switch. The suggestion from him is to return the carb I bought a year ago and start over again.
S.O.B. how could this be this much of an issue? It's a 2bbl Carb. I guess I'm at the point now where I will replace the carb and the choke temperature switch.
None of these things will make it hard to start.
When the engine is cold it wants a very rich mixture. So a high float level is no big deal.
As to the bowl vent, as long as it is open after the engine starts, then it is no big deal as to how far it is actually open... or how little.
The choke heater determines how long it takes for it to come off, so again has nothing to do with starting... as long as the choke does in fact close and enrich the mixture for starting.
As to the diaphragm popping in and out instantly, I'm assuming that you are talking about the choke pull-off...... and that is how it is supposed to work.
As to the rough running, that is a big deal, and may point to an ignition problem.... or to the airbleeds, or to the emulsion tubes, or to contaminated fuel, or to a mechanical failure in the engine..... like uneven compression..... or a slipped chain if they are all low.
Getting your carb working again is an easy thing.Carbs usually come with a 90day warranty. If you came to me with a sob-story a year later...... well, I'm sorry but you're SOL with me.
Testing your ignition is even easier.
And of course, there's nothing wrong with your cylinder pressure..... right?