peanut head plugs

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barbee6043

barbee 6043
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I was looking at my stash of slant plugs, and I noticed the difference in length of the NGK ZFR5N vs the NGK UR-4...... looks like one is 3/8 or maybe 1/2 inch further into the head than the other. The UR-4 being the shorter one\
I have a peanut head on 2 cars, O Reilly shows the ur-4 as a choice, and seems like slantsixdan was always praising the ZFR5N, but maybe it was for the drool tube type head???????
Are these longer and shorter plugs interchangeable on the slant heads or what????????
 
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I was to the understanding the ZFR5N was for both style heads, just remove the crush washer on the drool tube heads.
 
I was to the understanding the ZFR5N was for both style heads, just remove the crush washer on the drool tube heads.

That is what I have read and understand too. But the difference I length is a lot!! Pretty sure I have had both plugs in peanut heads. Just wondering, 3/8 of an inch is a lot!!!
All my slants are somewhat woreout too!!!!!
 
my guess would be that with how far down the pistons are in a slant they will never hit. I have those plugs in my drool tube slant with the block milled .120 without an issue.
 
I found a recommendation on slantsix.org from Dan to use UR5 NGK2771 on peanut head. that is what I have n mine
 
I have found the NKG 2771 UR5, plug to have different length of the treated part , I do not undertand this!
I also seem them listed under marine applications.
I never gave it that much thought. That's probably why I went with Dan's recommendation. So, I wouldn't have to think about it much. LOL
 
Ok, I will just go ahead and add to the confusion. Here is what I actually put in and I don't remember why I went with this. As I know my original plan was to use the 5s. I took a pic along side of plug that was in it when I got it. the overall plug is a little shorter, but the part that matters looks to be exactly the same length. Was that plug 'right'. I don't know...

image.jpg
 
Ok, I will just go ahead and add to the confusion. Here is what I actually put in and I don't remember why I went with this. As I know my original plan was to use the 5s. I took a pic along side of plug that was in it when I got it. the overall plug is a little shorter, but the part that matters looks to be exactly the same length. Was that plug 'right'. I don't know...

View attachment 1715186654

That is the length of the plug I am using now. I have a set of NGK UR5 I believe to be the #2771. I think I had them in the peanut head engine once, did not tear anything up I guess!
I have also fond pics on the computer shpwing that #2771 , some are shorter, some longer! LOL
 
I think Dan mentioned that the longer plug put the spark more centered in the hole for better combustion. The combustion chamber shape on a 6 is enough that the plug length is not an issue.
 
I think Dan mentioned that the longer plug put the spark more centered in the hole for better combustion. The combustion chamber shape on a 6 is enough that the plug length is not an issue.
Thanks. I thought I had both length plugs in the peanut head and nothing broke or blew up!, But I have too many old cars to remember every thing!!!!!
 
Gentlemen,
Why not use accurate descriptions in your inquiry ,
There are only two types of plugs used: taper seat plugs (1/2" reach) mid '70's head design or gasket seat plugs (3/4" reach) that use a aluminum spark plug tubes and an O ring seal to prevent oil leaks....similar to the 426 Hemi head design. If using this design, remove the gasket on the spark plugs. Actual plug brand or heat ranges....can be what ever.....Champion (N12Y etc), Autolite (AG52 etc), AC 45XLS etc, or what ever the NGK boys presently like or use or insist are the "best".
Let's drop the childish descriptions.....peanut plugs and drool tubes. Heat ranges and reach length MUST BE DETERMINED by the owner...or do your own do diligence. ..don't take someone else's opinion......just my thoughts .....
Bob Renton
 
Gentlemen,
Why not use accurate descriptions in your inquiry ,
There are only two types of plugs used: taper seat plugs (1/2" reach) mid '70's head design or gasket seat plugs (3/4" reach) that use a aluminum spark plug tubes and an O ring seal to prevent oil leaks....similar to the 426 Hemi head design. If using this design, remove the gasket on the spark plugs. Actual plug brand or heat ranges....can be what ever.....Champion (N12Y etc), Autolite (AG52 etc), AC 45XLS etc, or what ever the NGK boys presently like or use or insist are the "best".
Let's drop the childish descriptions.....peanut plugs and drool tubes. Heat ranges and reach length MUST BE DETERMINED by the owner...or do your own do diligence. ..don't take someone else's opinion......just my thoughts .....
Bob Renton
Bob,
Thanks for the input, but many of us here are far from experts. We might not have a clue how to figure out our ideal reach and heat range. We just want a plug that is going to work. So we ask questions and make decisions based on the answers we get. Maybe those answers are fact, maybe opinions. But it's what we have to go on. If someone's advice works out, I am inclined to listen to them again...
About those head types - The purpose of a name is to reference what you are talking about without describing it in detail every time. 'Drool tube' and 'peanut head' seam to be accepted names that fulfill that need. I don't see how they are 'childish, not that it matters...
my 2 cents… Keith
 
Zkx14,
Thank you for your email and information.
The slant 6 engjne used 2 types of plugs: gasket seat (early engines all displacements) and taper seat plugs (I believe mid 70 production).
Spark plug brands and types are extremely subjective.....like which beer is best or shoes are more comfortable or .... However, spark plugs are manufactured to strict SAE atandards (Society of Automotive Engineers) and engine manufacture's cylinder head design and emission requirements. Whether you have a taper seat or gasket seat cylinder head engine, it is IMPERATIVE THAT THE CORRECT TYPE OF PLUG BE USED. If you like Champion or Autolite or NGK brand plugs all well and good. The heat range of the brand is selected .... by trial and error or "seat of the pants" engineering or the DFL factor, its best to start out with a cold plug, as its easier to replace fouled plugs than melted pistons. Spark advance characteristics, mixture ratio and fuel distribution, cam shaft design, compression ratio are the factors in plug heat determination (at least the initial selection).
Do your own do dilligance. .... remember that your next door neighbor's brother- in-law's, cousin's sister's husband's friend's best "buddy" has no clue to what YOU need for your application.....CAVIET EMPTOR applies.
Bob Renton
 
Those of us that have been on this site and others for many years learn who has good sound advice and who's is maybe questionable. I agree it is important to get correct parts, but for those just entering this wonderful world of FABO and slant in particular, much info has come from members that have sound engineering knowledge and tremendous experience ( not me!),,,,, and the terms drool and peanut, you will find that is the slang used pretty much all time, childish or not.
We just try to help each other and we always appreciate input.
 
Zkx14,
Thank you for your email and information.
The slant 6 engjne used 2 types of plugs: gasket seat (early engines all displacements) and taper seat plugs (I believe mid 70 production).
Spark plug brands and types are extremely subjective.....like which beer is best or shoes are more comfortable or .... However, spark plugs are manufactured to strict SAE atandards (Society of Automotive Engineers) and engine manufacture's cylinder head design and emission requirements. Whether you have a taper seat or gasket seat cylinder head engine, it is IMPERATIVE THAT THE CORRECT TYPE OF PLUG BE USED. If you like Champion or Autolite or NGK brand plugs all well and good. The heat range of the brand is selected .... by trial and error or "seat of the pants" engineering or the DFL factor, its best to start out with a cold plug, as its easier to replace fouled plugs than melted pistons. Spark advance characteristics, mixture ratio and fuel distribution, cam shaft design, compression ratio are the factors in plug heat determination (at least the initial selection).
Do your own do dilligance. .... remember that your next door neighbor's brother- in-law's, cousin's sister's husband's friend's best "buddy" has no clue to what YOU need for your application.....CAVIET EMPTOR applies.
Bob Renton
If you read my posts (and others above) -slantsixdan is one of the 'gurus' of the slant six community and longtime member here. Actually a lighting engineer Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply. Recently sold his slant car so not on here much anymore. Many of us have looked to him for recommendations. While I did use NGK, I went with a 4 instead of 5 that he suggested, and at this point I don't recall why I did that... Now that my car is together and running, I will educate myself a bit more to determine if I might improve ignition with a different plug at the next tune-up. So, your input is appreciated.
The best beer is the cold one in your hand. Funny you mentioned shoes, I always thought the name sneakers was childish. LOL
And last but not least -Go Steelers!:thumbsup:
 
If you read my posts (and others above) -slantsixdan is one of the 'gurus' of the slant six community and longtime member here. Actually a lighting engineer Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply. Recently sold his slant car so not on here much anymore. Many of us have looked to him for recommendations. While I did use NGK, I went with a 4 instead of 5 that he suggested, and at this point I don't recall why I did that... Now that my car is together and running, I will educate myself a bit more to determine if I might improve ignition with a different plug at the next tune-up. So, your input is appreciated.
The best beer is the cold one in your hand. Funny you mentioned shoes, I always thought the name sneakers was childish. LOL
And last but not least -Go Steelers!:thumbsup:

THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENTS....however, I stand by my origional premise....slant 6 plugs are EITHER tapered seat design or gasket seat design.....not peanut plugs or drule tubes......what do you call the round, black, air inflated devices under the car at 4 corners.....donuts? Whst do you call the amber colored, slippery stuff, that is poured into the engine to reduce friction....honey? LEARN THE PROPER NOMENCLATURE FOR THINGS.....ignorance is not bliss ....
Just my opinion of course...
BOB RENTON
 
Gentlemen,
Why not use accurate descriptions in your inquiry ,
There are only two types of plugs used: taper seat plugs (1/2" reach) mid '70's head design or gasket seat plugs (3/4" reach) that use a aluminum spark plug tubes and an O ring seal to prevent oil leaks....similar to the 426 Hemi head design. If using this design, remove the gasket on the spark plugs. Actual plug brand or heat ranges....can be what ever.....Champion (N12Y etc), Autolite (AG52 etc), AC 45XLS etc, or what ever the NGK boys presently like or use or insist are the "best".
Let's drop the childish descriptions.....peanut plugs and drool tubes. Heat ranges and reach length MUST BE DETERMINED by the owner...or do your own do diligence. ..don't take someone else's opinion......just my thoughts .....
Bob Renton
Because that's what they've always been called. How is your "adulting" helping the OP? Go tell somebody else what to do. How's that for childish?
 
THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENTS....however, I stand by my origional premise....slant 6 plugs are EITHER tapered seat design or gasket seat design.....not peanut plugs or drule tubes......what do you call the round, black, air inflated devices under the car at 4 corners.....donuts? Whst do you call the amber colored, slippery stuff, that is poured into the engine to reduce friction....honey? LEARN THE PROPER NOMENCLATURE FOR THINGS.....ignorance is not bliss ....
Just my opinion of course...
BOB RENTON
I know what I call people who act like you. It starts with an an A and ends with an E with a couple of S's somewhere in the middle.
 
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