Budget 318 build

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So when i degree the cam the centerline should be 112 is that what that last number means
The 112 is the LSA... lobe separation angle. There is normally another number after that for ICL which for these cams would typically be 108-ish, but that number is missing here.

That last (missing) number is the ICL as the cam grinder grinds the cam relative to the standard sprockets and keys on cam and crank. A 108 ICL number would indicate that the cam is advanced 4 degrees if you installed it dot-to-dot. (112-108 = 4 degrees advance). So if you install it at ICL=104, then that is 4 more degrees advanced from the dot-to-dot installation, which would be at the +4 position for the crank sprocket of one of those settable cam timing chain sets.

BTW, where are you in VA?
 
The 112 is the LSA... lobe separation angle. There is normally another number after that for ICL which for these cams would typically be 108-ish, but that number is missing here.
I have the card that came with the cam i will dig it out and try to find the icl number. I am in southwest va
That last (missing) number is the ICL as the cam grinder grinds the cam relative to the standard sprockets and keys on cam and crank. A 108 ICL number would indicate that the cam is advanced 4 degrees if you installed it dot-to-dot. (112-108 = 4 degrees advance). So if you install it at ICL=104, then that is 4 more degrees advanced from the dot-to-dot installation, which would be at the +4 position for the crank sprocket of one of those settable cam timing chain sets.

BTW, where are you in VA?
 
I have the cam card for the cam I will see if i can find the icl number. I am in southwest va
 
OK, if you don't find that exact number, it can be worked out from the intake opening and closing angles. But, ultimately, you set it where you want it with the cam timing procedure; this number is a good reference to know where to start.

OK, I am up in the Shenandoah Valley... and grew up in Salem.
 
20180615_154504.jpg
 
OK, if you don't find that exact number, it can be worked out from the intake opening and closing angles. But, ultimately, you set it where you want it with the cam timing procedure; this number is a good reference to know where to start.

OK, I am up in the Shenandoah Valley... and grew up in Salem.
Thats not far I'm about an hour from Salem im in wythe county
 
OK.. there is it near the bottom on the intake timing line under 'Lobe Center'...108. Some ground-in advance is pretty normal for these types of cams; helps the low RPM torque not fall off as much.
 
Thats not far I'm about an hour from Salem im in wythe county
That's nice country! If I ever move in VA, that is probably where I would go... over near the Parkway area. My long term ancestral home is in NE Tenn and so I have been through your neck of the woods a few kazillion times. Lots of nice roads to cruise and romp on.
 
OK.. there is it near the bottom on the intake timing line under 'Lobe Center'...108. Some ground-in advance is pretty normal for these types of cams; helps the low RPM torque not fall off as much.
Ok so when i degree it it should degree at 108 if its centerline
 
I just installed that same cam in a 75 dart with auto/and a 276 gear I was surprised how well it ran and with no notice of power lost at the bottom end I think the smaller ports on the 318 help keep the air speed up ,the compression only dropped 10 psi but the timing chain was almost falling off the old camshaft could have changed the psi more with a new chain maybe a little also installed a performer intake with a 650 edy avs style carb.
 
Happy fathers Day dartfreak
I'd rather use a regrind than that 50 year old 204-214 design, or a stock cam
At least you do not see Edelbrocks price for it
check other mfg like Elgin, Wolverine, Speed Pro
WE just specked a 254-262 Lunati Voodoo but is it worth the extra bucks? You might get lucky with Racer Brown but
Comp, Crane, Erson, Isky have nothing any better
good news is that quality is good, resonably foolproof installation just use moly paste (not liquid) and some break in oil (not DIY additive) and prime oil system with a hex shaft and drill
I see where this is discussed on page 2
 
Was this cam a gift? Swap meet?
If new in the box send it back and use the one suggested above
incidentally one poster in that thread referenced said it was close to the HP cam-- not even close
It is ground 4 degrees advanced but you could push it up another few the 2000 is more important than the 4000
 
NM- AJ
what about the lighter and higher compression Ht Magnum pistons? (if he needs pistons)
He has one of the better short blocks already short of a later roller cam motor
let's hope he does not have the dished truck pistons
 
NM- AJ
what about the lighter and higher compression Ht Magnum pistons? (if he needs pistons)
He has one of the better short blocks already short of a later roller cam motor
let's hope he does not have the dished truck pistons
It doesn't sound like the OP want's to completely rebuild this engine. He already has some building blocks and already has the cam and it's not too big for his combination. It also doesn''t sound like he is building towards maximum horsepower. Many of us don't have the need. It's awful easy for these threads to go that direction. Here's a quote :
"Thanks for your input my plans for this car is just a driver no racing or high performance situations i just want a little extra umf out of the 318 for cruising this engine is a temporary fix i have a 360 that is gonna be professionally built when the funds are available i just want a cheap fix for now to get my old dart back on the road"


Is the Summit cam he owns too big? No. Are there other cams out there that will make more power? Yes. If you build for more power will he have to change other pieces of the puzzle to make it work? Probably. There are no magic bullet cams for this (or any) application. There will always be someone elses grind that works a little better at a certain rpm or makes more power at the expense of torque and the like. There have been dozens of threads about 318 cams with stock engines. These discussions have gone on for years.
 
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It’s all low compression. Doesn’t matter what you have. Even the vaunted high compression 340 isn’t all that. If you seriously want to step up the program, new slugs are in order. No if ands or butts.

Passenger car or truck, it’s all the same on the inside.
 
So what is a better mod to add to an existing 72 318 stock short that was modded with a 340-ish cam upgrade and 360 heads (decked and 3 angle VJ), DP aluminum intake and 600 carb;


1) A reworked short with KB's to ~10:1 CR
2) Toss the 360 heads, rework the 318 heads with a bit of porting, bigger valves, VJ, and slice the deck as much as I can go for more CR
3) Rework short and add 318 heads back for higher velocities

Forgot to mention, I have factory TC, Dakota exh manifolds (hate headers) and 3:23 gears
 
NM- AJ
what about the lighter and higher compression Ht Magnum pistons? (if he needs pistons)
He has one of the better short blocks already short of a later roller cam motor
let's hope he does not have the dished truck pistons
The best stock-ish pistons I have ever found are the 526's (early rings) and 814's (later rings)... flat, no eyebrows, and about .075 below deck. I am not aware of anything different with the Magnum 'cept the deck is about .015" lower. There are indeed lower CH truck pistons out there.... not sure WHICH trucks they were in but the CH is another .083 inches lower...yikes.... over .150 in the hole! Beyond that, then you have the KB's, Icons, and so on.

But as said.. the OP is on a mission to do the minimum on the 318 and be safe and just get this running. His 360 is where things can be different... if he so chooses. All he can do is advance the cam as suggested.
 
So what is a better mod to add to an existing 72 318 stock short that was modded with a 340-ish cam upgrade and 360 heads (decked and 3 angle VJ), DP aluminum intake and 600 carb;


1) A reworked short with KB's to ~10:1 CR
2) Toss the 360 heads, rework the 318 heads with a bit of porting, bigger valves, VJ, and slice the deck as much as I can go for more CR
3) Rework short and add 318 heads back for higher velocities

Forgot to mention, I have factory TC, Dakota exh manifolds (hate headers) and 3:23 gears

Number two and number three are the same.
If it were I .....
Rework the 360 heads and mill them down.
Then do number 1 with KB slugs and zero deck it.
Off the exhaust manifolds, as large as a pipe as you get on it. 2-1/2 would be awesome. “H” pipe the dual exhaust.
340-ish cam????

Ooooo boy! Actual specs would be stellar
 
Hello guys I have a few questions and am open to suggestions on an engine im building for my dart. First off its a bone stock bottom end stock heads with a summit k6900 cam and lifters stock iron 340 intake a holley 600cfm 4160 carb and full length headers. The tranny is a stock 904 with a 71/4 rear with 276 gears. I know the rear has got to go!! But the funds arent there yet ! Ok so my questions im gonna go with a double roller timing chain should i get the one that can advance or retard the cam on the gear is this gonna be necessary with this setup? Should i just centerline the cam?What advice would you guys give? Ok next question i have a extra set of 360 heads will the stock 360 valve springs be any better than the stock 318 springs? That is all for know i will post more as they come to me lol
If you are doing low budget you just need to bolt the 360 heads onto the 318.
 
If you are doing low budget you just need to bolt the 360 heads onto the 318.

On a basically stock 318 with a mild cam I wouldn't replace the #302 casting heads with a 360 head.
 
Yea im not i made that mistake once! I put together a 318 before and put 360 heads on it was weak my slant 6 had more power! Now of the block was decked and the heads where milled with pistons that would give more more compression then yes but a stock 318 with 360 heads is weak
 
Ok, i have been following this thread especially since it pertains to what I'm going to do with my Ramcharger.
What I get from the comments, a 318 stock-ish rebuild. The OP should bump up the compression, clean up and mill the #302 heads, stock cam, 4bbl, dual exhaust and a good tune. This sounds very familiar in a few ways.
1) its what im doing now.
2) back in the early 90s, I had a 74 Charger that my buddy gave me his 318 from his 86 ram. I was not allowed to go anything but timing chain, oil pump and gasget set. I used my LD4B intake and a 780 holley. A 904 trans and 2.94 peg leg it ran a solid consistently 15.2 in the quarter. Stock except headers, duals and 4bbl.
This will be a great combo until he can get the 360 he desires built.
 
Number two and number three are the same.
If it were I .....
Rework the 360 heads and mill them down.
Then do number 1 with KB slugs and zero deck it.
Off the exhaust manifolds, as large as a pipe as you get on it. 2-1/2 would be awesome. “H” pipe the dual exhaust.
340-ish cam????

Ooooo boy! Actual specs would be stellar


Read them again, option 2 swaps the 318 heads back in, and option 3 reworks the short and adds the 318 heads. Basically, I am wondering if adding big chamber/port 360 heads in a small 318 is my biggest anchor. Especially if I am looking for power down low, where 318 cubes are the most challenged. Increased velocities, something the 318 heads will offer you in spades, combined with the increase in CR, will give you better mixing down low -- where the bigger port/smaller velocity 360 heads are over-sized for only 318 cubes and will only come to life in very high rpm high flow need, something my 318 will never see with an automatic and 3:23 gears. Cam specs at this point, are minor, relatively speaking.
 
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