Fuel line routing - frame connectors

-
rmchrgr

rmchrgr

Skate And Destroy
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
3,960
Reaction score
1,109
Location
Stamford, CT
How do you all route your 3/8" fuel line with frame connectors?

Running a new front to back hard line and am running into difficulty with the frame connector, it's right where the line passes through the trans. cross member. I need to make some tricky bends and it's kicking my ***, went through a whole roll of line already trying different things, none of which were satisfactory. Was originally run through the cross memeber and made a hard left between the floor pan and top of the connector, then out to the pinch weld under the rocker.

Easiest would probably be to run it along the inside of the frame connector and attach with clips/self-tapping screws. My concern is that it ends up a few inches from the exhaust. Anyone do that?

Anyone run it under the connector?

Sorry, no pics at the moment. Thanks for any input.

- Greg
 
I ran mine from my fuel cell in the trunk, along the factory frame rail on the the passenger side, bolted it to frame connector with rubber insulated clips/ self tapping screws. There is a hole in the torsion bar crossmember you can run it through. I think the original fuel line was run through this hole. Well, at least it was on my '71 Duster which was an original /6. I may make some kind of shield or wrap it with dyna mat or something to protect it from exhaust heat. I will post pics tomorrow.
 
rmchrgr said:
My concern is that it ends up a few inches from the exhaust. Anyone do that?

Anyone run it under the connector?
- Greg
Click to expand...

How much room do you have between your fuel tank and your exhaust pipes? That is usually a pretty tight fit also. If you tuck it up close to the floor the heat shouldn't bother it much. You can always put some heat wrap on the line or a small alum heat shield if there is a specific area that is too close. Gas cannot burn inside the line, so other than hot fuel and vapor lock issues the exhaust isn't that much to worry about.

Under no circumstance would I put it under the connector. That would make your fuel line the scrub point for the car. To much potential for damage. And if you ever bottomed it out you run the risk of fuel leakage and sparks at the same time.
 
I cut the line and installed it in two pieces with a flared union.

fuellineimg.jpg

flairedunionimg.jpg
 
Are you using steel or aluminum?I ran my 1/2 inch aluminum right where the factory did and then a hole thru the crossmember so that I could keep it on the outside of the passenger side frame.Being aluminum you can make bends using a plumber spring?I think thats what its called?Its just a spring that fits tight over it about 15 inches long that allows you to make bends in soft tube without collapsing it.
 

Attachments

  • 000_3863.jpg
    108.5 KB · Views: 881
  • 000_3869.jpg
    103.3 KB · Views: 1,002
mcnoople said:
Under no circumstance would I put it under the connector. That would make your fuel line the scrub point for the car. To much potential for damage. And if you ever bottomed it out you run the risk of fuel leakage and sparks at the same time.
Click to expand...

X2

At no point should the fuel (or any) lines be below the frame. IIRC NHRA rules dictate that the fuel line must be run on the outside of the frame rail so that fragments from a clutch, converter, transmission or driveshaft explosion do not pierce a line. Even so, I ran my line on the inside of the frame connector and passed it through the existing hole in the t-bar crossmember. It was a PITA but I like the way it came out. It's much easier if you install a union and make it a 2-piece line.
 
OK, so I finally worked out the fuel line routing. Took me forever, lot of trial and error and internal debate. Though I probably over thought it, I felt like this project merited a good deal of planning before I set it in place.There are some important factors to consider safety-wise; ensuring the line was not lower than any part of the frame, proximity to exhaust heat and chassis flex/vibration.

I also got to use my cool-guy Ridgid 37 degree flaring tool and Imperial Eastman tubing bender. I enjoy working with AN-type fittings, gives a clean and finished look.

Here are some pics.

Looking forward, inside of pass. side connector;
IMG_8276.jpg


Looking towards the rear inside of right rear wheel arch, heat shield on;
IMG_8267.jpg


Mopar Muscle did essentially the same thing on their Valiant project several years back. Was glad to know someone else had the same idea and was willing to put it out in a monthly mag. See here.

Lines need to be secured but it's in. I like the way it turned out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top