After Market Fuel Gauge 1966 Dart?

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coalman

coalman

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Anyone use one, and if so which one? I just don't trust mine. Thanks
 
coalman said:
Anyone use one, and if so which one? I just don't trust mine. Thanks
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Are you going to try and install it in place of the original gauge? or just hang it off in a pod? makes a bit of difference since trying to find one that fits the original area might be a problem
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66Dvert said:
if your hanging it get the matching sending unit so you can have a correct reading . autometer works.
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Ok thanks, that was what I was worried about, I have a new sending unit in the tank. The gauge works it just acts like it has a mind of it's own. Thanks again...
 
You should be able to use one of the Auto Meter fuel level gauges that are calibrated to 73 ohms @ empty and 10 ohms @ full. They should work with your current tank sending unit and be pretty close to the factory gauge. Make sure that your tank sending unit has a good ground.
 
ddartdude said:
You should be able to use one of the Auto Meter fuel level gauges that are calibrated to 73 ohms @ empty and 10 ohms @ full. They should work with your current tank sending unit and be pretty close to the factory gauge. Make sure that your tank sending unit has a good ground.
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I ran a ground from the fuel tube on the sending unit to a ground on the unibody. I will check it. Did you splice the Auto Meter in and left the old one place, or just by passed the original? Thanks
 
There is a little strap, about 6 inches long, that goes from the fuel tank sending unit, over the rubber hose and clamps onto the fuel line. That would be your ground.
I haven't replaced the fuel gauge yet. It is on my list of things to do/get. I have to rebuild the steering coupler, replace the pinion seal, reinstall my engine, trans, clutch assembly, radiator, headers and new u-joints. Then it's gauges. Oh, and also the fuel filler tube restrictor.
Lots of things to keep me busy.
 
ddartdude said:
There is a little strap, about 6 inches long, that goes from the fuel tank sending unit, over the rubber hose and clamps onto the fuel line. That would be your ground.
I haven't replaced the fuel gauge yet. It is on my list of things to do/get. I have to rebuild the steering coupler, replace the pinion seal, reinstall my engine, trans, clutch assembly, radiator, headers and new u-joints. Then it's gauges. Oh, and also the fuel filler tube restrictor.
Lots of things to keep me busy.
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My car is no where near stock, rubber fuel hose in back, electric fuel pump. I know the part you are talking about. Thanks again
By the way, what are you building?
 
I have a real 1966 D/Dart. Actually I have 2 of them. The one that I am working on has a 360 in it now. The guy that I bought it from had changed the tired 275 hp 273 to a 380 hp 360 back in 1999. He never had it on the road that i know of. I've had it on the road a few times, about 20 miles total, and realized it needed some repairs. So I'm repairing it.
 
ddartdude said:
I have a real 1966 D/Dart. Actually I have 2 of them. The one that I am working on has a 360 in it now. The guy that I bought it from had changed the tired 275 hp 273 to a 380 hp 360 back in 1999. He never had it on the road that i know of. I've had it on the road a few times, about 20 miles total, and realized it needed some repairs. So I'm repairing it.
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Great, I hope you enjoy them both!!!
 
coalman said:
I ran a ground from the fuel tube on the sending unit to a ground on the unibody. I will check it. Did you splice the Auto Meter in and left the old one place, or just by passed the original? Thanks
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I just put in an autometer 73-10 ohm in my 63. I also have an aftermarket sender in. I tried splicing it in and running in parallel with the existing fuel gauge but did not work - the autometer just kept cycling to half full and back. I suspect with two gauges it upset the resistance readings. I now just the run the autometer. Can't comment on accuracy yet only been in a month.
 
reddog said:
I just put in an autometer 73-10 ohm in my 63. I also have an aftermarket sender in. I tried splicing it in and running in parallel with the existing fuel gauge but did not work - the autometer just kept cycling to half full and back. I suspect with two gauges it upset the resistance readings. I now just the run the autometer. Can't comment on accuracy yet only been in a month.
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Thanks for the input...
 
reddog please let me know how it works, I am still tinkering with the factory one, as think I might have more of an electrical issue than anything else. Thanks
 
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