Leak Down Test On My New 418 Need Help?

Here's something else you can do
Back off the rocker gear and do the LD test with the pistons at the bottoms of the bores,still listening for where the air is going; but now you can do it at 100psi without fear of the piston moving on you, plus you can tap on the valves to knock the carbon out, and seat the valves properly. 'Course sometimes the valves won't seat at all, and then you make a note of it, and continue testing.
Then after that, you can reduce the test-pressure (I use 30psi) and drive the pistons to the top, stopping at a couple of intervals, to check the bores for scratches, and finally reaching the top. On a fresh engine the top and bottom should be the same or very similar, using the identical test pressure, and I use no less than 80psi, at the top. In-frame this is usually pretty difficult so I'd have to suspect something amiss to do it. I have found wrist-pin damage this way, and cracked bores. But the bottom test is quick and easy.
I'm not usually looking for absolute pressure but rather the differences between cylinders. But when the numbers come up at less than 4%, then I get interested in absolutes real quick.