GTS Motor info

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jim

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Trying to ID a 383. The motor is in a 1968 Dart GTS previous owner claims its the original motor ? I know he also had a 69 GTS around the same time. The casting date is 3.28.68 #stamped on pan rail at the rear of the block is PT383P24480348 on the block next to the distributor has D383. 4 10
I was told 68 used a order number on the body and motor ? Not the vin ?

Info is appreciated

Jim
 
True.

SO number should be on the bellhousing flange behind the right head area.

D383 is 69 is it not? Should also have an HP stamped on the pad by the dizzy.

Also the stamp by the starter on the pan rail should likely be an S not a P but not always.
 
P= Premium fuel
S= special - as most A’s are.

2448 is build date- 2nd shift April 1968?

0348 is 348th built that day.
 
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D is 1968. VIN will be on the bellhousing rail on the drivers side near the oil sending unit to the right of it. Two ways to tell if it is a factory A-Body block is of course the drilled bosses for the drivers motor mount and the cut-off rear motor mount boss. Here is an original 383 out of a factory 68 GTS.

IMG_20180131_163105203.jpg
 
D is 1968. VIN will be on the bellhousing rail on the drivers side near the oil sending unit to the right of it. Two ways to tell if it is a factory A-Body block is of course the drilled bosses for the drivers motor mount and the cut-off rear motor mount boss. Here is an original 383 out of a factory 68 GTS.

View attachment 1715190472

School me, you say right side of the oil sending unit, so basically in the center or center Right?

I can never seem to keep D and E straight in my head.
 
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The 2 threaded bosses are in place. The back mount ear is not cut off. No numbers on the back of the block by oil sender.
 
The 2 threaded bosses are in place. The back mount ear is not cut off. No numbers on the back of the block by oil sender.

They are hard to see sometimes, my 69 warranty block is E383 HP by the dizzy as I just checked and has no VIN number on the 69 pad area, and the rear mount is not shaved. It has the drilled bosses but also has what appears to be a 68 style non matching SO number on the bellhousing flange to the right of the oil pressure sender close to the right head. Pan rail by starter is PT383H25130103 which would put it close to a window of 6 months from build of the fender tag.
 
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D is 1968. VIN will be on the bellhousing rail on the drivers side near the oil sending unit to the right of it. Two ways to tell if it is a factory A-Body block is of course the drilled bosses for the drivers motor mount and the cut-off rear motor mount boss. Here is an original 383 out of a factory 68 GTS.

View attachment 1715190472

I learn something every time I come on here.
 
School me, you say right side of the oil sending unit, so basically in the center or center Right?

I can never seem to keep D and E straight in my head.

Standing in front of the engine take a look at the bellhousing flange to the right of the oil sending unit following it down to where the starter bolts on. Somewhere on that flange will be the VIN number, not the SO number. Not all 68 engines got stamped there, but most are. There were quite a few 383 blocks with the bosses for the drivers mount that could be drilled.
 
Thanks SS,

Don’t have a legible pic of my 69 383 for reference but here is a local 69 RR 426 and it is right at the oil pressure sender. 9A100013. “Yes it may be the #1 69 Hemi RR” I know it is a 426 but the stamp should be relevant as it is July 68 for 69 production.

Maybe the 383/440 are similar but the number on my assumed 69 383 warranty is on the left of center looking from the front just past the left oil galley plug from the front view. This is what can be confusing. I think my block may be early 69 and is a warranty repair that was originaly in a RR and might be why the normal 69 pad is blank.

FDD47886-7B76-4767-A7C7-5A65CA7D354D.jpeg
 
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D is 1968. VIN will be on the bellhousing rail on the drivers side near the oil sending unit to the right of it. Two ways to tell if it is a factory A-Body block is of course the drilled bosses for the drivers motor mount and the cut-off rear motor mount boss. Here is an original 383 out of a factory 68 GTS.

View attachment 1715190472



Looked closer on my block and I do see numbers on the back of my block
Numbers are 8G239139
So what are these numbers?
This post is educational for me
Thanks
 
Looked closer on my block and I do see numbers on the back of my block
Numbers are 8G239139
So what are these numbers?
This post is educational for me
Thanks

Have not researched but 8 is good for you. What is the VIN on the dash. Darts start with L yes?
 
Seemingly if original it would be 8L307xxx.

Do not quote me on that though as I always thought pre 69 had sales order numbers. I am learning here as well.:lol:
 
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Someone will chime in for sure!
 
By the way for the record, where are the numbers you posted located?
 
And I edited my previous post to match yours for your privacy.
 
A lot of misnomers on 67-68 bigblock A bodies. Not all 383s had an H stamped on the pad below the dizzy especially early blocks. Majority of the blocks with the H stamping that I've found were in 68-70 Road Runners. The block in my GTS didn't have a stamping. It was an early June 67 casting. As far as the bosses go, they are not inherent to the bigblock A body. 65 C bodies had bosses for the driver side motor mount which is similar to the Big Block A body. Some blocks had bosses not drilled. There were 71 castings that had the bosses drilled. I had a 71 Charger SE with drilled out bosses

Same holds true for the horsepower ratings. Mopar folklore contributed the 5ph difference between the Roadrunner 383 magnum driver side manifold and the bigblock A body driver side exhaust manifold. The actual HP difference was due to the camshaft profile. The Magnum 383 had a slightly hotter cam. Several years ago we did some flow testing with the various HP manifolds, C body, B Body and A body. The difference between the manifolds were negligible.

Bottom line is to go by the numbers.

Never say never about Mopars.
 
Let me add one more piece of advice. Talk with Jim Rhinehart (rhinodart) or Jim Lusk. The two have more big block A body experience and history than probably anybody here on this forum.
 
Let me add one more piece of advice. Talk with Jim Rhinehart (rhinodart) or Jim Lusk. The two have more big block A body experience and history than probably anybody here on this forum.
HemiSSDart posted above ^^^^^^ IS Jim Rhinehart..........
 
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