[FOR SALE] 1972 Duster - Very nice

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Old Country

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1972 Plymouth Duster – Thank you for checking out my ad, as you’ll find this is a big package, not just a car alone. This was originally a 340 H-code 4-Bbl 4-spd Duster (no longer). Everything that’s important is either rebuilt as-new or replaced with new. Every part of this car has a lengthy story; the engine, the trani(s), rear end, suspension, wiring, interior, brakes...etc., thus it would be far easier if you just asked what’s not replaced or restored. For starters: Custom Viper metallic blue, AAR fiberglass hood, custom 408 stroker engine with easily less than 2000 miles. The engine? As can be seen, it has a fairly rare six-pack setup (works awesome!), port-matched intake, custom ground CamMotion solid-lifter cam for the six-pack: 244/244 - .539”/.539” – 112 LSA, ported & blue-printed Edelbrock RPM heads, Probe roller-rockers, Clay Smith dual springs, Smith Bros push rods, all forged Eagle bottom end, 10.1 forged pistons, Kevco pan, ATI Super Damper….etc. It was dyno-tuned to get the carbs just right with this cam and made: 429 rwhp/ 436 rwtq (around 510 crank hp).

I recently installed a very stout (maybe 40 miles on it now) custom built 727 Tq-Flight trani, loads of HD parts, clutches, super-sprag, steels, deep pan, Hughes 3500 stall Converter, a Cheetah-SCS-shifter, reverse pattern manual valve body.…etc. Included in this package is the original 4-speed which shifted smooth and clean when removed for this trani swap. It was inspected and refreshed prior to this build (less than 2000 miles ago). I used a Center-Force Dual Friction Clutch/Press-Plate setup, light weight DC flywheel, the aluminum bell housing, entire pedal and shift linkage (all restored), and new Hurst Super shifter setup. It has a new 4” driveshaft, HD U-joints, custom drive shaft loop, new 8 3/4” Dr. Diff rear (Yukon Nodular Iron 489 with 3.73s, Eaton TruTrac unit…etc), over $1700 just for this rear setup, new Dutchman Axles, Springs recurved, stiffened & moved to the frame, new old school slotted rims, MT ET Street radials, front disc brakes, new modern aluminum master cylinder, new brake lines, welded-in subframe connectors…on & on, so much done. The manual disc brakes are nice and firm, work great, especially using this improved master cylinder. Did I mention I installed LineLoks? Also Firm-Feel rebuilt the manual steering box, and it is really crisp, no slop!

I’m also including two nice aluminum 4-bbl intakes I was planning to eventually try out (Edelbrock RPM Performer & Edelbrock Victor 340) and a like-new Holley 750 cfm HP Street (none of it ever on the car). CamMotion noted this cam would be terrific with a good 4-bbl intake, and so there they are! Oh and also brand new front disc rotors to move to 5x4.5”, just haven’t installed them yet, along with brand new slotted from 15” rims (currently has 14”). There are lots of other parts as well, but you get the idea. I built this machine for me, and to enjoy well into my retirement (I’m 59), spared little expense, did all that I thought needed doing. I suppose there’s more that can be done, but it would be fluff stuff. Oh, it also comes with the original hood in gorgeous Viper blue, glass-smooth, not a scratch, but it wouldn’t clear the six-pack filter housing set-up (about ¾” too high)!

Over $34K has been invested over the last +7 years during this build (never seen rain). I put this automatic in it just to see how it would do at the strip. I only made 2 passes, and that was good enough to satisfy my curiosity: both were near 12 flat. If desired, it would take nearly nothing to push into the high 11s, but that’s for someone else to explore should they desire. To be honest, the car was much more fun with the 4-speed (to me), as I built it for the street. This car has NEVER been abused, period, never, no way, and actually it has been totally under-used! Those two passes were actually the first and only times I smoked the tires - sad but true. Maybe I'm get'n too old? Nah. Oh it also has a new Pioneer FM radio/CD player. If I was going to keep it I’d switch back to a manual, but to a 5-spd and perhaps a heavier flywheel. I don’t care for this automatic that much mainly due to the high stall, and I like manual trani cars anyway, lesson learned. It's hell-for-stout, just not my thing. I’ve spent the majority of my life working in the commercial aviation engineering & maintenance field, so details mean a LOT to me. Hey - Just keep’n it honest for the my fellow FABOs.

I have a HUGE build folder (actually a couple) with all receipts I’ve accumulated over these years, with lots of details. There were times I didn’t drive it more than 100 or 200 miles a year, some years it only made it out once or none, just busy, always garaged. It is quite a head-turner, and has a very pronounced muscle car rumble with down-pipes at the axles, fed by ceramic TTI Headers into new aluminized 3” H-pipes with Dynomax Ultra flow (welded). I’m starting to feel pretty stupid for selling all this, so you better hurry! This build has been a slow labor of love, a very enjoyable journey, progressing ever upward in performance while maintaining good street manners, getting things just right & solid.

Obviously I’d like at least $30K, but you won’t pay that, so I suppose I’ll consider offers above a painful $24,000 OBO, which is simply to help it find a new (lucky) home. I’ll see what kind of offers are made, because you’re not buying a car, but ‘entire package’ with all the goodies.

I’m sorry - It appears this ad jumps around a lot, but I don’t sell things too often, and this was kinda tough. I’m not interested in trades or selling off parts. I’m in Vancouver, Wa, 98664 - Thank you kindly, and I hope to hear from you.

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The Duster - May 2015.jpg
 
Nice ride, do you have any current pic's ? Thanks
Current meaning showing the Cheetah shifter...? Nope I don't think so. I could take one and include it, but I'd due that if someone wanted to buy it, since we all know what that looks like. Everything else is current.
 
Are those six pack carburetors from a Corvette?
What's CFM are they?
Reason I ask is the fuel lines are feeding on to the wrong side of the bowls to be a Mopar carburetor.

Beautiful car by the way.
 
Are those six pack carburetors from a Corvette?
What's CFM are they?
Reason I ask is the fuel lines are feeding on to the wrong side of the bowls to be a Mopar carburetor.

Beautiful car by the way.

Yep - she's a real head turner.
The carbs? Funny you should ask, not many folks pick-up on that. Those are some special carbs, and they contribute nicely to the cars originality. Corvette carbs? Nope. It's my understanding that these were originally designed & intended for a Ford Nascar race program using a high-reving 289 Cabra. Holley build the agreed Lot of X-amount of carbs, but Ford backed out leaving them in the lurch. Holley approached Mopar, who agreed to take them and added them to their old Direct Connection catalog as race-only, can't recall the date range (early 70s?). They use a 'mechanical progressive-link setup to open the end carbs, while the Mopar six-packs are all vacuum actuated. The float bowls are different as well, with the float pivots on the side vs the center pivot for Mopars.

All 3 carbs have accelerator pumps, thus with these carbs, wow, fuel is right there right now! I've ridden in numerous six-pack Mopars (340/440) and they always felt a bit sluggish 'waiting' for the end carbs to open, actually feel doggish compared to these. These run on the center carb until about 40% throttle, and pressing further you feel a definite spot of increased resistance, like a stop. Look at the pic of the linkage.You press further into it and the end carbs immediately start to open, fuel is squirt'n, the car just jumps and that 'whoa' smile is spontaneous. The cam was ground for these carbs, and has a pretty tight overlap so there's plenty of manifold vacuum on-tap.

There's quite a bit of info in the web on these carbs if you hunt around, here's a link that speaks about them (mechanical six-pack carbs. | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums). The thread is a fun read, and like most, it's not 100% accurate, like the cfm spec: research showed consistently finding the center is 355 cfm and the outboards 500 each.

It took about 9 dyno pulls to dial these in correctly. It made a high of 437 rwhp, but we pulled-out a little timing & tweaked the outbd carb accel-pump cams for better street manners, settling on 429 rwhp, good idle (still lumpy) and a snappy throttle (manual trani). A LOT of thought and work went into this car, and when you ride in it, you know it.

Hope all that helped - 'now please buy my car', ha, ha... Everybody loves the thing but I haven't even got'n an offer... strange days. Thanks for the questions.
 
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Pic of hood closed and inside the trunk ,has it had any tub work done ? Thanks Mike
Yep - she's a real head turner.
The carbs? Funny you should ask, not many folks pick-up on that. Those are some special carbs, and they contribute nicely to the cars originality. Corvette carbs? Nope. It's my understanding that these were originally designed & intended for a Ford Nascar race program using a high-reving 289 Cabra. Holley build the agreed Lot of X-amount of carbs, but Ford backed out leaving them in the lurch. Holley approached Mopar, who agreed to take them and added them to their old Direct Connection catalog as race-only, can't recall the date range (early 70s?). They use a 'mechanical progressive-link setup to open the end carbs, while the Mopar six-packs are all vacuum actuated. The float bowls are different as well, with the float pivots on the side vs the center pivot for Mopars.

All 3 carbs have accelerator pumps, thus with these carbs, wow, fuel is right there right now! I've ridden in numerous six-pack Mopars (340/440) and they always felt a bit sluggish 'waiting' for the end carbs to open, actually feel doggish compared to these. These run on the center carb until about 40% throttle, and pressing further you feel a definite spot of increased resistance, like a stop. Look at the pic of the linkage.You press further into it and the end carbs immediately start to open, fuel is squirt'n, the car just jumps and that 'whoa' smile is spontaneous. The cam was ground for these carbs, and has a pretty tight overlap so there's plenty of manifold vacuum on-tap.

There's quite a bit of info in the web on these carbs if you hunt around, here's a link that speaks about them (mechanical six-pack carbs. | Moparts Question and Answer | Moparts Forums). The thread is a fun read, and like most, it's not 100% accurate, like the cfm spec: research showed consistently finding the center is 355 cfm and the outboards 500 each.

It took about 9 dyno pulls to dial these in correctly. It made a high of 437 rwhp, but we pulled-out a little timing & tweaked the outbd carb accel-pump cams for better street manners, settling on 429 rwhp, good idle (still lumpy) and a snappy throttle (manual trani). A LOT of thought and work went into this car, and when you ride in it, you know it.

Hope all that helped - 'now please buy my car', ha, ha... Everybody loves the thing but I haven't even got'n an offer... strange days. Thanks for the questions.
 
Pic of hood closed and inside the trunk ,has it had any tub work done ? Thanks Mike
More Pics - okay, but it'll have to be tomorrow. I have none with the new high-back bucket seats, but here's one with the old bucket-bench. Trunk is great, no rust, painted in rubberized undercoat - pretty nice stuff. Tubs? Nope. I was going to when we moved the spring to the frame, but it didn't really need it (mini-tub). The rear MT ET streets are 10.5 wide, no rubbing, good tractions, but the well is fairly full.
 
Here's the pic with the hood down. Taken just after drilling for the hood pins, prior to placing the pin-plates. I can see I need to take more (trunk, rear-end shots, tank..etc). Need to get it uncovered and into the sun - no time today. Also a shot of one of the rears - sweet. Did I mention it has new bumpers...? Full 3/8" fuel system with a return to the tank at the regulator, Holley HP mechanical pump, new steering harness (turn signal, horn), new ignition harness & switch... just all sorts of good stuff.

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