QA1 problem

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crazy 340

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hang on its a long story

few years ago I bought the upper control arm the K frame and strut rod from QA1
instal the upper control and the strut rod right away but let the K frame alone

didnt have the time to replace it !!

last winter I rebuilt my 408 so was the time to replace the k frame

so last week I went to the alignement shop the guy didnt have to told me its was out of spec couldnt even turn the steering all the way to the right because the tire was in contact to the fender !!!

he made a quick alignment reset the ride hide and told me to run the car as is for few days to let every thing settle a bit

yesterday I went back to the same shop so he could made the final adjustment
sorry I dont brang back the paper with all the spec

BUT I went for a ride after the final alignement under normal driving it aint that bad bud if I jump on the brake the steering wheel wanna turn left if I hit a bump it feel gouffy a little and under hard acceleration the steering wheel wanna turn right, but baddly right almost a quater of a turn ,if I keep the steering tight and stright the car will go left ,when I release the gas pedal and let the front end go down or settle the steering wheel is coming back as normal , if I hit a bump doing this the car is all over the place

I have to let the steering turn right because the car will go left

any idea ???
 
I’d bet money it has nothing to do with the QA1 K member itself and everything to do with the alignment. The K member shouldn’t even effect half the stuff you’re talking about. The alignment, on the other hand, could be responsible for a lot of it.

Sorry, we need to see the alignment specs. Most of what you described sounds like an awful alignment, but without he numbers we’d all just be guessing. And we need to know what else you have for suspension. Control arms, strut rods, torsion bars, brakes, tires, wheels, all of it.

Also, it would be a lot easier to understand you if you use some punctuation and do a little proof reading before you post.
 
sorry for the ponctuation Im french and try do to my best !

brake are oe
upper control arm is QA1
lower control arm is oe
K frame is QA1
strut rod is QA1
tire are Dayton
wheel are are weld wheel
 
I’d bet money it has nothing to do with the QA1 K member itself and everything to do with the alignment.

i agree. less and lees people know how to align these cars. all they know how to do anymore is to adjust ill a green light on the screen.. sucks..
 
sorry for the ponctuation Im french and try do to my best !

brake are oe
upper control arm is QA1
lower control arm is oe
K frame is QA1
strut rod is QA1
tire are Dayton
wheel are are weld wheel

What car is this? Are the tires bias ply or radials? Was the car on the road before with the current brakes and did it pull under braking at all?

With all of the adjustable parts, my bet is still that the alignment is way off. How were the adjustable strut rods set up?

Adjustable, aftermarket suspension components are great if they're set up properly. However, they can be more difficult to set up, so if not installed and aligned correctly they can cause bigger problems. And the skill level required to set them up is higher than the skill level at most basic alignment shops these days.
 
sorry for the delay dont have much time lately

found the problem !!!!

the alignment shop was not that bad but he could have saw
the problem the first time

a bad idle arm made the problem

last monday night I went back to the alignment shop

he tried ounce again to make it work put the right adjusment in
but when he pull down on the front bumper to make the suspention
work all the adjustement went away so...

I told him get the car higher so we can take a good look of what's happenning
when the front suspention move and we could see what's binding or dont do is job.
so right away I saw that the dragline was alote higher on the pitman arm side
compare to the idle arm

its 2 new parts all the shim are there and in the way to get that idle arm high

just to make a quick test he light up the torche heated the idle arm red hot bind it
to make the dragline parrallel to the k member

he realigne the car and went for a ride
the car goes extremely well !!

now I need to buy an other idle arm hoping it will fit the first time
I dont like getting steering parts red hot bind it let it cool down
and driving the car that way

affraid its gonna brake so ....
 
OMG. That is not how things r done. The ears where the idler mounts could be bent. Maybe a little tweaking there would oh made a huge difference. Maybe u have the wrong idler. Kim
 
Sounds like they modified the exhisting arm just to see the effect then ordered the correct one to replace it.
 
hang on its a long story

few years ago I bought the upper control arm the K frame and strut rod from QA1
instal the upper control and the strut rod right away but let the K frame alone

didnt have the time to replace it !!

last winter I rebuilt my 408 so was the time to replace the k frame

so last week I went to the alignement shop the guy didnt have to told me its was out of spec couldnt even turn the steering all the way to the right because the tire was in contact to the fender !!!

he made a quick alignment reset the ride hide and told me to run the car as is for few days to let every thing settle a bit

yesterday I went back to the same shop so he could made the final adjustment
sorry I dont brang back the paper with all the spec

BUT I went for a ride after the final alignement under normal driving it aint that bad bud if I jump on the brake the steering wheel wanna turn left if I hit a bump it feel gouffy a little and under hard acceleration the steering wheel wanna turn right, but baddly right almost a quater of a turn ,if I keep the steering tight and stright the car will go left ,when I release the gas pedal and let the front end go down or settle the steering wheel is coming back as normal , if I hit a bump doing this the car is all over the place

I have to let the steering turn right because the car will go left

any idea ???

What year is the car? Idler arms are different for some years. According to the Mopar Chassis Bible, the proper way to adjust the height of the idler arm is to elongate the mounting holes and spot weld a hardened washer to the tabs to relocate the arm in the right spot.

Regarding bump steer, it would be nice to have a pair of hydraulic jacks that are rigged to raise and lower the suspension through the full range of travel while the front tires are on slip plates in order to measure the changes in toe-in as the suspension goes through its range of motion.

My car bump steers slightly, but I have not tried to back off the torsion bars all the way to see if gravity is enough to collapse the front suspension all the way down to obtain the measurement at full compression. I would love to have my measurements in changing toe-in during full-range of suspension travel and make some set-up adjustments to my suspension components to eliminate my bump steer.
 
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