Alternator amp rating.
A better test of charge state using voltage measurement alone is what it drops to when the headlights are turned on, or as some factory manuals suggest, during starting.
Considering the situation, definately recharge the battery. First because we know it was run down a bit as you describe. Second, to see if that alone resolves the high current draw indicated by the ammeter.
The ammeter should not indicate alternator output.
Take a look at the main power and charge circuit diagram below.
Power distribution occurs at the main junction. Notice the ammeter is in the wire going to the battery, which after the main junction.
When the alternator is producing enough power, its output voltage is higher than the battery's - around 14.3 Volts, give or take 0.5 Volts. All power needs are then supplied by the alternator. At the main junction it divides to the various systems where there is demand. The ammeter only shows the current flow going to recharge the battery.
While an ammeter could be placed on the alternator output before the main junction, that's not what the factory ammeters were set up to do. The factory ammeters can not handle that much current on a close to 100% duty cycle.
There is a chance that something was changed in the rewiring which has resulted in high current going through the ammeter even at idle.
In other words, we may be looking at a power draw for something in addition to simply battery recharging. Ignition alone should draw only a few amps, and same with the field circuit.
When the car is being started, the battery supplies power to ignition and starter relay, so the ammeter should show about 5+ amps discharge.
After starting, the ammeter should show battery Charging (+) and after a few minutes show no flow.
Ah ha! This may relate to the issue. It shouldn't because none of the equipment was turned on, but it all depends on how the new wires were run, and where they connect.
Using voltage of the battery provides only a rough indicator of the charge state. 12.7 Volts is ballpark OK.
A better test of charge state using voltage measurement alone is what it drops to when the headlights are turned on, or as some factory manuals suggest, during starting.
Considering the situation, definately recharge the battery. First because we know it was run down a bit as you describe. Second, to see if that alone resolves the high current draw indicated by the ammeter.
The ammeter should only indicates current to or from the battery.
The ammeter should not indicate alternator output.
Take a look at the main power and charge circuit diagram below.
Power distribution occurs at the main junction. Notice the ammeter is in the wire going to the battery, which after the main junction.
When the alternator is producing enough power, its output voltage is higher than the battery's - around 14.3 Volts, give or take 0.5 Volts. All power needs are then supplied by the alternator. At the main junction it divides to the various systems where there is demand. The ammeter only shows the current flow going to recharge the battery.
While an ammeter could be placed on the alternator output before the main junction, that's not what the factory ammeters were set up to do. The factory ammeters can not handle that much current on a close to 100% duty cycle.
There is a chance that something was changed in the rewiring which has resulted in high current going through the ammeter even at idle.
In other words, we may be looking at a power draw for something in addition to simply battery recharging. Ignition alone should draw only a few amps, and same with the field circuit.
When the car is being started, the battery supplies power to ignition and starter relay, so the ammeter should show about 5+ amps discharge.
After starting, the ammeter should show battery Charging (+) and after a few minutes show no flow.
