Tune up....? Does it all look good?

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Hillside hemi

Hillside hemi

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Got a question don't know if this belongs here but here goes.... I did a tune-up on my 225 slant 6 65 Valiant. New plugs wires distributor timing chain protronics ignitor and coil... she runs really good idles good she drives good.. but I feel as if she should have more power I will post pics of my dwell timing running hot and RPMs at idle I did get the engine hot shut it off take the valve cover off start it back up and set my valve lash to .10 inkate and .20 exhaust.. and yes it took a lot of pictures to get that timing picture lol! Anf not that familiar with old cars and how much power they should have or feel. If I'm overthinking it let me know cuz I got her just for a cruiser anyway and a good looker...

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do you know your rear gear ? is it a 2.40 ,I had this set up in a 73 duster with a/c and a 904 it was not too bad when proper tune but not a race car but it took me a long time to get it right a lighter set of springs in the dist was the best cheap improvement plus a slight main jet increase helped a lot and make sure your vacuum advance works .also are you sure its a 225 not a 198 or170? I might of learned something today didn't know you could check dwell on a electronic dist conversion
 
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teringer said:
do you know your rear gear ? is it a 2.40 ,I had this set up in a 73 duster with a/c and a 904 it was not too bad when proper tune but not a race car but it took me a long time to get it right a lighter set of springs in the dist was the best cheap improvement plus a slight main jet increase helped a lot and make sure your vacuum advance works .also are you sure its a 225 not a 198 or170? I might of learned something today didn't know you could check dwell on a electronic dist conversion
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with that protronics kit it comes with a .30 feeler gauge and tells you that should be your air gap and has a screw Just Like Old points so you can sit that Gap.... so I figured I would check the dwell.. all the numbers I found on the car and the motor and all the searching iv done online is saying it's a 225 I'll double check numbers. But that number search should be right right or is there another way to tell?
 
teringer said:
do you know your rear gear ? is it a 2.40 ,I had this set up in a 73 duster with a/c and a 904 it was not too bad when proper tune but not a race car but it took me a long time to get it right a lighter set of springs in the dist was the best cheap improvement plus a slight main jet increase helped a lot and make sure your vacuum advance works .also are you sure its a 225 not a 198 or170? I might of learned something today didn't know you could check dwell on a electronic dist conversion
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Post a pic of the bypass hose. that will confirm whether it's a 170 or 225...
 
If I remember right the engine should be red, blue is later model so eng isn't original . did the engine have 5/8 head spark plugs ? or 13/16 could be a 198 but not a 170 they were all red I think looking at your pics what carb are you using
 
teringer said:
If I remember right the engine should be red, blue is later model so eng isn't original . did the engine have 5/8 head spark plugs ? or 13/16 could be a 198 but not a 170 they were all red I think
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The engine in the car is red and the original motor the one in the stand came out of a 70s and that one is blue my plan was restore the car and the motor that's in it keep stock rebuild it stock and the one on the stand go crazy try to get as much horsepower out of it as possible was even thinking twin turbo for the motor that's on the stand
 
OK was just trying to figure out your plan for this project
 
motorpirate said:
170
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I was talking to my old man and he said the 170 distributor number one is higher up he has a 225 in his 66 Cuda and it has a short hose like mine but the distributor number one is down farther same with mine.. 1 pic is from his 60 valiant and the other my 65 valiant is that correct?

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IMO 10/20 lash is too tight . The engine will lose compression and thus power. I set mine to 13/23 hot. It even idles better, and the power came back.
If power is suspect, the very first go-to should be a compression test, followed almost immediately with a LeakDown test. Of course the lash needs to be adequate.
Also, in my experience those slanty rocker arms are a lil soft and the stems wear a little grove in them over time. You need narrow feelers to get into the grooves,and adjust them properly.

Unless the ignition power-timing is waaay short, you won't find a lot of power there, because......... most slantys run hiway gears like 2.76s, and so your all-in timing may not arrive until well after 30 mph, in first gear. And you likely won't find missing power in the carb either.
The problem is if you only have 105hp, are you gonna notice 5 more?
But the compression test will point you in the right direction, and even more so the LD test.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
IMO 10/20 lash is too tight . The engine will lose compression and thus power. I set mine to 13/23 hot. It even idles better, and the power came back.
If power is suspect, the very first go-to should be a compression test, followed almost immediately with a LeakDown test. Of course the lash needs to be adequate.
Also, in my experience those slanty rocker arms are a lil soft and the stems wear a little grove in them over time. You need narrow feelers to get into the grooves,and adjust them properly.

Unless the ignition power-timing is waaay short, you won't find a lot of power there, because......... most slantys run hiway gears like 2.76s, and so your all-in timing may not arrive until well after 30 mph, in first gear. And you likely won't find missing power in the carb either.
The problem is if you only have 105hp, are you gonna notice 5 more?
But the compression test will point you in the right direction, and even more so the LD test.
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Just got back from a 30-mile cruise I set them to 13 and 23 oh yeah that's crazy that little bit can notice just in the Idol O.o.... and no probably not going to notice five horse.. my other summer toy is Infiniti G37S 400 horse to the Wheels uprev Tune she is fast and fun smoke them for a block and coming soon to that one 125 shot of nitrous ;)
 
Hillside hemi said:
with that protronics kit it comes with a .30 feeler gauge and tells you that should be your air gap and has a screw Just Like Old points so you can sit that Gap.... so I figured I would check the dwell.. all the numbers I found on the car and the motor and all the searching iv done online is saying it's a 225 I'll double check numbers. But that number search should be right right or is there another way to tell?
Click to expand...

.030 is a huge air gap. It could be because it is an aftermarket distributor, I suppose. But if I remember correctly, the factory electronic distributor air gap is .008

Not saying .030 is wrong for your dizzy, just saying it SEEMS like a lot.

Russ
 
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.008 to .011, I believe is spec on the oem Ds
I have inadvertently run as little a zero (yes rubbing) and as much as .030, using the Orange box, with seemingly, no change in performance.

I'm pretty sure .30 is a typing error...... as is .08,lol
Geez I better check what I typed,lol.
 
AJ/FormS said:
.008 to .011, I believe is spec on the oem Ds
I have inadvertently run as little a zero (yes rubbing) and as much as .030, using the Orange box, with seemingly, no change in performance.

I'm pretty sure .30 is a typing error...... as is .08,lol
Geez I better check what I typed,lol.
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Yep it .030 and that's where it's at at right now with the plastic feeler gauge they sent me with the kit
 
AJ/FormS said:
.008 to .011, I believe is spec on the oem Ds
I have inadvertently run as little a zero (yes rubbing) and as much as .030, using the Orange box, with seemingly, no change in performance.

I'm pretty sure .30 is a typing error...... as is .08,lol
Geez I better check what I typed,lol.
Click to expand...

I did intend on typing .008, but now I am questioning everything because of this haha
 
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