Tell me why I should or should not switch to fuel injection!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fuel injection or no fuel injection

  • Go Fuel injection

    Votes: 21 63.6%
  • Stay with carb

    Votes: 12 36.4%

  • Total voters
    33
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duster360

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I have been thinking about switching to the Holley Sniper fuel injection. Tell me your opinion why I should or shouldn't switch to fuel injection. Wheather it be nostalgic, keeping it old school or other reasons.
 
Other than adjusting for big changes in altitude how is efi better? Unless you drive alot of miles it will never pay for itself.
 
When all we had was carburetors in "the old days" everyone complained about jetting, power valves, idle adjustment, vacuum leaks, timing, etc. And everyone begged the carburetor people ( Holley, Edelbrock) to "do something". They did, it's called fuel injection, no more pinging, better mileage, better engine management/control and all the rest. That's not to say carbs aren't any good, its just that efi is a whole lot better. Just my opinion.
 
I'm not a stalwart for keeping it all stock. Back in 'the day', guys pulled off the stock wheels and tires and put on mags and bigger tires. Off with the exhaust manifolds and on with headers. Raise the rear with a shackle kit or air shocks. Cal Custom valve covers, aluminum intake, a Holley 3310...It was making the car yours. Now there are newer technologies available for us to consider; 4-wheel disc brake kits, fuel injection, etc.

There is no denying that FI improves starting, drivability, and fuel mileage. Combine that with the ability to control timing and electric fans, that improves engine efficiency through all seasons and weather conditions. The Sniper can be had from 600hp to 1250hp, so there is one to fit your application. While I like working on my cars, I like driving them a whole lot better. So, if I can put components on the car that make it perform better with less fiddling, then I can drive it a whole lot more.

Whichever way you go, I'm sure you'll have a nice ride. Take care.
 
carbs work great when they are 100% functional. When they start to wear out (throttle shaft bushings, leaking accelerator pumps, puckering/dried up gaskets, camshaft changes that mandate A/F ratio changesd) they start to give you pains in your wallet as well as making the whole ownership experience a little sour. EFI is highly adaptable, somewhat self learning, and stupid simple to the end user IF THE SYSTEM IS SET UP CORRECTLY. Hey, so is a functional carb! So if your a tinkerer, rebuild your carb, and get that new car performance again. If your a modifier, hey EFI is now a bolt on, but dont think your going to get better performance off the bat. sure youll see more accurate A/F across the board, but a carb can do that on an OEM application. Now paying $900 for a carb is a no brainer FAIL!
 
Last time I priced a holley HP950 to replace the one I have now it was $1000 cdn here locally with taxes and rebates . The Fitech Go4 with the timing control is $1300 plus the fuel system upgrade , making the whole package with the Tanks tank , pump and sending unit less than 2 holley carbs . The hold up here for me has been the insurance company , I have collector insurance for $236 bucks a year which required a documentation and approval process by the provincial insurance company , thats full coverage at an insanely low price that I don't want to lose . They ave started a Modified Collector program with the same rates that allows for aftermarket stereos and mechanical modifications that they will approve on a car by car basis , unfortunately they said EFI even with the fuel system upgrade wasn't enough of a modification so if I do it I lose my collector status .Hopefully they will add EFI to the program and then it's a done deal for me , either that or I may switch the car to another province and then see if I can do it there .
PS in the seven + years I have had this carb I have spent at least 300 on power valves and rebuild kits and gaskets etc... that crap can get real pricey up here because they see it as race parts and know we will pay up for what we need .
 
I like most everything about
retrofit EFI, except for those noisy, aftermarket in-line fuel pumps. Now, they make in-tank retrofit pump kits which I think are a step in the right direction, but when they come out with body-specific reproduction fuel tanks with late-model oem style EFI fuel pumps, then sign me up.
 
I like most everything about
retrofit EFI, except for those noisy, aftermarket in-line fuel pumps. Now, they make in-tank retrofit pump kits which I think are a step in the right direction, but when they come out with body-specific reproduction fuel tanks with late-model oem style EFI fuel pumps, then sign me up.
Hang the external EFI pump in an isolated/suspended assembly like MBZ did in their larger V8 class cars and youll never hear it. Heck, you can 'grab' the whole compound 2 pump and filter scrotum from under a 500 MBZ car and have a pretty good starting point for a pusher system.
gascleanstart04.jpg
 
Control module could fail, injector(s) could fail, electric pump could fail, TPS could fail, at inoppurtune times, and may take time for part replacement. Of course carbureted engine could have electric pump, and if you never drive out of town breakdowns aren't super serious.
 
I like most everything about
retrofit EFI, except for those noisy, aftermarket in-line fuel pumps. Now, they make in-tank retrofit pump kits which I think are a step in the right direction, but when they come out with body-specific reproduction fuel tanks with late-model oem style EFI fuel pumps, then sign me up.
Tanks Inc. They have fuel injection tanks for '63 -'69 Dart/Barracuda, '70 - '76 Dart/Duster, '70 - '74 Cuda/Challenger, '68 - '70 B-bodies; plus in-tank pumps, regulators, filters, etc.
TANKS Inc. gas tanks for street rods, muscle cars, custom cars and trucks
 
My 750DP is circa 1970. It is old and tired,and has a lotta miles on it, but still works mighty fine. I would have to think really hard about swapping to EFI, even straight up with no costs involved.
I would, however, trade it straight up for an 850DP, no question about it !
 
Tanks Inc. They have fuel injection tanks for '63 -'69 Dart/Barracuda, '70 - '76 Dart/Duster, '70 - '74 Cuda/Challenger, '68 - '70 B-bodies; plus in-tank pumps, regulators, filters, etc.
TANKS Inc. gas tanks for street rods, muscle cars, custom cars and trucks
awesome link. that's what I'm talking about.
You get the advantages of noise suppression, fuel pump cooling by immersion in cool fuel, less chance of fuel starvation by a fuel baffle/box, and super clean relatively stock-looking installation.
 
I have cars with both, and I'm not sure I would do a FI setup again. It's been my experience, there is no real noticeable milage increase over a WELL tuned carb, and there are LOTS of parts to fail in a FI setup. I like both, but you can't beat the simplicity of a carburetor and a mechanical fuel pump.
 
Only if you drive a lot or live somewhere where its consistently above 100°. I'm in Vegas and daily driving my Aspen wagon in the heat of summer with a carb sucks. I put about 2k miles a month, mixed city/hwy driving.

If I could afford the FI and if it wasn't worth more than the car itself, I would swap. But if I lived somewhere cooler I wouldn't even think about it. Carbs are easy and rebuild kits are cheap.
 
After umpteen years of troubleshooting fuel injected vehicles im looking forward to bolting that carb onto my 318...
And reading all about the trouble people have with the efi kits, im not convinced they are any better.
 
My project EFI(s) are a labor of love. Im a tinkerer and have a daily driver that I dont ever touch, its a company truck...EFI of course. old Mazda B2000 is a good old NOS carb. Starts every time.
 
If you dont drive them , they dry up...

Nothing wrong with either, just different ailments.

why should you change to efi would be a better question.
 
My 750DP is circa 1970. It is old and tired,and has a lotta miles on it, but still works mighty fine. I would have to think really hard about swapping to EFI, even straight up with no costs involved.
I would, however, trade it straight up for an 850DP, no question about it !

I have a fast 2.0 on my 440/505, I just bit the bullet and am having a cam ground for the fuel inj. set up. Have had trouble w/ too close of lobe separation, and never could get it quite right, (not enough vacuum).
That being said, I use to run a 800 double pumper w/ blow out protection on a fairly hot 406 sbc, and loved it, never had a problem other than keeping my foot out of it and burning a fair amount of gas. I wouldn`t run a carb w/o blow out protection!
 
Other than adjusting for big changes in altitude how is efi better? Unless you drive alot of miles it will never pay for itself.
I mostly agree with this. I KNOW that your car will probably start and run a little better, you'll have better throttle response, and you'll get better fuel mileage. But I wonder if it is really worth the expense. My 340 runs great with an Edelbrock Thunder Series carb, and it was only about $400. I think it boils down to personal choice. If you can afford the FI conversion, and the increases mentioned above are worth the cost to you then go for it. I thought about it, and decided it was not worth it for me.
 
I guess I'm just nostalgic - and I can tune engines.
EFI is the Millennial approach to carb problems: not terribly expensive in the big picture, and plug and play. Since you asked, I'd rather know how things work and be able to take the time to maintain them myself then plug and play. A well tuned carb will never "beat" EFI for economy or part throttle drivability, but in then case of specialty OLD cars, that's not why I/we drive what we drive.
 
I have a fast 2.0 on my 440/505, I just bit the bullet and am having a cam ground for the fuel inj. set up. Have had trouble w/ too close of lobe separation, and never could get it quite right, (not enough vacuum).
That being said, I use to run a 800 double pumper w/ blow out protection on a fairly hot 406 sbc, and loved it, never had a problem other than keeping my foot out of it and burning a fair amount of gas. I wouldn`t run a carb w/o blow out protection!


This is why FI blows. It dont like big lumpy cams.
 
I look at guys my age or slightly older with their street rods. Aftermarket Deuce body, frame, FI engine, O/D automatic, A/C, power windows brakes and power R&P steering. Huh? Exactly what part of a 1932 Ford am I looking at? But we may be heading there.

It depends on what you do with your car. The best part for me is driving and I actually enjoy driving my mostly original slanty convertible on warm summer nights because it runs so good. Last night I drove around for 30 miles like Chuck Berry with no particular place to go. If the rebuilt 225 didn't run so well I might consider it.

On the other hand, I'm planning on putting a 5.7 Hemi in my 68, no fuss, no muss,and a quiet 400 horsepower.

There is a Demon shootout in the newest Hot Rod magazine. 4 new Demons, 4 different drivers (2 were female) at a strip in Louisiana. Four cars with 4 different drivers clicking off dozens of runs in varying weather conditions ALL within hundredths of 10.10 seconds. They commented that the cars got better and more consistent with every run as the computers made adjustments.
 
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