You can buy or build a large aluminum plate to install under your 4bbl carb.It sticks forward about 5 or 6 inches. You can bend that up or attach stuff to it.
Make sure all your rubber lines on the supply side are in good shape, and if you have gear clamps on them, install two per joint with screw heads at 180* from eachother; and I like to point the screw slots in opposite directions whenever I can. Pay particular attention to the jumper at the sender. It is above the liquid-line in the tank, and will not always leak if the joint is not secure. But the pump will suck air there if it can; and especially so if the tank-vent is not properly working. If the air leak is not severe, the pump will pull it up and push it into the bowl, and from there to atmosphere. As the leak gets worse, eventually the pump would pump nothing but air. Of course your engine would quit running before this happens,lol.
Make sure your fresh air system is working properly, especially the mixing valve that tries to maintain a specific inlet air temperature; up here at 85*F, IIRC. You know; that heat stove/thermactor thingy. It has it's controller inside the air filter housing.The carb is calibrated to run with that temperature. If you defeat it so that the carb gets only air at ambient temp, you will have trouble when the temp drops, later in the year.
