THINKING OF PARTING OUT MY DART

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partsman1965

partsman1965

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2013
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Location
Bourbonnais, Illinois
Need thoughts on pricing as listed to see if I'm on target with prices before I list! Pic is of car as it is now. I need cash soon and think I can sell big items quicker than whole car?
A-BODY 8 ¾ DR DIFF SPOOL AND LBP AXLES 3.91 DRUM TO DRUM. LESS THAN 1500 MILES ON IT. $1800.00

1970 340,J-HEADS 2.02 INTAKES. FRESH MP SPRINGS GOOD UP TO .510 LIFT. .441-.441 276 288 CAM. FORGED FLAT TOP .030 PISTONS ON BALANCED RODS/CRANK. CRANK IS CAST NOT FORGED. 727 TRANS REBUILT WITH ALL MP OVERHAUL KIT WITH STOCK CONVERTOR DEEP PAN. LESS THAN 1500 MILES SINCE BUILT. $3500.00

REBUILT/BALANCED DRIVE SHAFT NEW SPICER JOINTS. $200.00

CERAMIC COATED FLOWTECH HEADERS VGC. $175.00

2 CORE RADIATOR WITH SHROUD 1500 MILES. $150.00

FULL FRONT SUSPENSION ALL NEW BUSHINGS AND JOINTS.

$300.00

FULL BODY/CHASSIS WITH PERFECT INTERIOR AND GLASS

AND ALL WIRING ONLY NEEDS RIGHT QUARTER WORK.

$3800.00


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Some items will sell quickly, others may be around forever....
 
seems like you should be able to get $3800 for the whole thing
 
We’ll, you asked so here goes.

On the engine, it’s used but we don’t know how many miles since it was built. Guys will spend $3500 to build an engine, but not nearly that to buy someone else’s used engine.

As for the body, if you think anyone is going to pay you $3800 for your bare body that needs a qtr panel and has no front or rear suspension under it, no engine, and is a dart sport, I think you’re dreaming. The “beak” cars as some call them are not the most desirable A-body’s. Some like them, more people don’t.
Also, some folks think they can get back whatever they’ve put into it, but that rarely happens.
Just my two cents.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Yeah, it sucks but just because you spent $15k doesn't make it worth anything more than fair retail.

As is it's worth what, $6k on average? Either cut your losses or keep it.
 
Not to be rude but how is a running driving fresh build 340/727 solid body A-body only worth $6g? I know due to not painted it is not worth $15G. I feel fair price is in the $9's
 
partsman1965 said:
Not to be rude but how is a running driving fresh build 340/727 solid body A-body only worth $6g? I know due to not painted it is not worth $15G. I feel fair price is in the $9's
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Not to be rude, but there's absolutely no way you'll get $9k for that car as it sits. That's a non-numbers matching beak car. $5k tops it's current condition, and that's only because it has a 340 in it. It's worth the price of the engine and the 8 3/4 plus $1k, and even at $5k that's pretty generous on the engine and 8 3/4.

If you want to get $9k for that car, you'd have to paint it. Then you might get $9k or $10k. Remember, even for a numbers matching, all original '71 340-4 speed Demon with a darn near perfect restoration you're probably looking at $30k- $35k outside of some super favorable auction. A driver condition version of that same '71 340 4 speed car might get $15-$20k. Go 73+ and you can half that number again, even for a 340 car if you're just talking about a driver. Not trying to beat you up, that's just the reality of a 73+ non-numbers car. A perfectly done, numbers matching, desirably optioned 73+ car perfectly restored isn't going to pull much if anything past $20k. An average to good restoration is half that, a decent driver condition car is half that. $5k.

I can relate, I probably have at least $15k into my '74 Duster, and that's just in parts because I do all the labor. But realistically, it's still probably not worth more than $7K in it's current condition at BEST, and I'd have to find a pro-touring guy to get that. It's got a '68 forged crank 340 and a 4 speed in it too. And it doesn't even look like a beak car anymore, it has a full '71 Demon front clip, tail panel converted over, bumpers converted over, pretty much a '71 from the outside and cleaner than what you've got there.

Looking at your asking prices you're pretty much asking retail for everything. My rule of thumb on most used parts is that they're worth about 50% of the new price, unless they're something hard to find. Even for brand new used parts bought second hand I usually won't go over 75% of retail, it's not worth dealing with a private party if it's more than that. Just buy retail and get a warranty, free shipping and the peace of mind that you're probably not going to get scammed. With your parts the only one you'll do much better than 50% of what you're asking on is the rear axle and front suspension, and that's only because you can't buy some of that stuff new and the A-body 8 3/4 is desirable.

People do not like to buy used, already built engines, period. I don't. If I don't know who built it I won't buy a used engine at all unless I have receipts for everything, a shop I can call for information, I can hear it run and do a leak down test on it. Otherwise it's a core as far as I'm concerned. Even a used 340 that's been built well isn't going to pull $3,500 unless it was done by a very recognizable builder.
 
72bluNblu is right on point.

A few years ago a local guy sold a legit 340 4spd '73 Dart Sport that was a nice driver, and tried like hell to sell it for low teens.

And don't feel bad, the vast majority of us Abody guys are in over our heads. They just don't pull in big money. I've got $12k in my '64 dart and I doubt I could get better than $3k for it!
 
List it as is on ebay and see what it brings. Probabally get more money for it that way than parted out.
 
72bluNblu said:
Not to be rude, but there's absolutely no way you'll get $9k for that car as it sits. That's a non-numbers matching beak car. $5k tops it's current condition, and that's only because it has a 340 in it. It's worth the price of the engine and the 8 3/4 plus $1k, and even at $5k that's pretty generous on the engine and 8 3/4.

If you want to get $9k for that car, you'd have to paint it. Then you might get $9k or $10k. Remember, even for a numbers matching, all original '71 340-4 speed Demon with a darn near perfect restoration you're probably looking at $30k- $35k outside of some super favorable auction. A driver condition version of that same '71 340 4 speed car might get $15-$20k. Go 73+ and you can half that number again, even for a 340 car if you're just talking about a driver. Not trying to beat you up, that's just the reality of a 73+ non-numbers car. A perfectly done, numbers matching, desirably optioned 73+ car perfectly restored isn't going to pull much if anything past $20k. An average to good restoration is half that, a decent driver condition car is half that. $5k.

I can relate, I probably have at least $15k into my '74 Duster, and that's just in parts because I do all the labor. But realistically, it's still probably not worth more than $7K in it's current condition at BEST, and I'd have to find a pro-touring guy to get that. It's got a '68 forged crank 340 and a 4 speed in it too. And it doesn't even look like a beak car anymore, it has a full '71 Demon front clip, tail panel converted over, bumpers converted over, pretty much a '71 from the outside and cleaner than what you've got there.

Looking at your asking prices you're pretty much asking retail for everything. My rule of thumb on most used parts is that they're worth about 50% of the new price, unless they're something hard to find. Even for brand new used parts bought second hand I usually won't go over 75% of retail, it's not worth dealing with a private party if it's more than that. Just buy retail and get a warranty, free shipping and the peace of mind that you're probably not going to get scammed. With your parts the only one you'll do much better than 50% of what you're asking on is the rear axle and front suspension, and that's only because you can't buy some of that stuff new and the A-body 8 3/4 is desirable.

People do not like to buy used, already built engines, period. I don't. If I don't know who built it I won't buy a used engine at all unless I have receipts for everything, a shop I can call for information, I can hear it run and do a leak down test on it. Otherwise it's a core as far as I'm concerned. Even a used 340 that's been built well isn't going to pull $3,500 unless it was done by a very recognizable builder.
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I agree. btw- I'd give you $7,000 for you duster/demon. Lol
 
Thanks everyone for input! This is why I put it here. I knew I would get honest info even though it may be a punch to the gut I needed to hear it! I think I'm going to drop price and see what happens!
 
mopowers said:
I agree. btw- I'd give you $7,000 for you duster/demon. Lol
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LOL! Yeah if I put someone behind the wheel I could get more than that for it, but it wouldn't be on looks! I didn't build it to sell so I really don't care. When I paint it I'll be able to do better, but starting with a '74 /6 car and going the pro-touring/clone route pretty much guarantees spending 2x what it'll ever be worth.

partsman1965 said:
Thanks everyone for input! This is why I put it here. I knew I would get honest info even though it may be a punch to the gut I needed to hear it! I think I'm going to drop price and see what happens!
Click to expand...

The paint is what's killing you. You can have the most mechanically badass, rust free A-body out there and if the paint isn't done you'll have a hard time selling it for decent money. Paint jobs are stupid expensive, and everyone knows it. People don't want to spend good money on a car knowing right out of the gate that they'll have to spend at least another $5 to $10k just to have a "decent" paint job done.
 
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