THINKING OF PARTING OUT MY DART
Not to be rude but how is a running driving fresh build 340/727 solid body A-body only worth $6g? I know due to not painted it is not worth $15G. I feel fair price is in the $9's
Not to be rude, but there's
absolutely no way you'll get $9k for that car as it sits. That's a non-numbers matching beak car. $5k tops it's current condition, and that's only because it has a 340 in it. It's worth the price of the engine and the 8 3/4 plus $1k, and even at $5k that's pretty generous on the engine and 8 3/4.
If you want to get $9k for that car, you'd have to paint it. Then you
might get $9k or $10k. Remember, even for a numbers matching, all original '71 340-4 speed Demon with a darn near perfect restoration you're probably looking at $30k- $35k outside of some super favorable auction. A driver condition version of that same '71 340 4 speed car might get $15-$20k. Go 73+ and you can half that number again, even for a 340 car if you're just talking about a driver. Not trying to beat you up, that's just the reality of a 73+ non-numbers car. A perfectly done, numbers matching, desirably optioned 73+ car perfectly restored isn't going to pull much if anything past $20k. An average to good restoration is half that, a decent driver condition car is half that. $5k.
I can relate, I probably have at
least $15k into my '74 Duster, and that's just in parts because I do all the labor. But realistically, it's still probably not worth more than $7K in it's current condition at BEST, and I'd have to find a pro-touring guy to get that. It's got a '68 forged crank 340 and a 4 speed in it too. And it doesn't even look like a beak car anymore, it has a full '71 Demon front clip, tail panel converted over, bumpers converted over, pretty much a '71 from the outside and cleaner than what you've got there.
Looking at your asking prices you're pretty much asking retail for everything. My rule of thumb on most used parts is that they're worth about 50% of the new price, unless they're something hard to find. Even for brand new used parts bought second hand I usually won't go over 75% of retail, it's not worth dealing with a private party if it's more than that. Just buy retail and get a warranty, free shipping and the peace of mind that you're probably not going to get scammed. With your parts the only one you'll do much better than 50% of what you're asking on is the rear axle and front suspension, and that's only because you can't buy some of that stuff new and the A-body 8 3/4 is desirable.
People do not like to buy used, already built engines, period. I don't. If I don't know who built it I won't buy a used engine at all unless I have receipts for everything, a shop I can call for information, I can hear it run and do a leak down test on it. Otherwise it's a core as far as I'm concerned. Even a used 340 that's been built well isn't going to pull $3,500 unless it was done by a very recognizable builder.
