TORSION BAR ADJUSTMENT

AJ/FormS said
And the big thing I discovered was that as the LCA rotates up and down,it carries the chassis with it, and so the centerlink too. But the two may not rise and fall in lock step, which introduces bump steer. There is a sweetspot in the curves where this is minimized. And I bet that is where Mopar designed the rideheight to be. On my car the sweet spot started out only about 2 inches wide, one up and 1 down. The outer tierod pivot point was too far out and too low,IIRC. That was year 2000 when I debugged it. Oh and the idler-arm height was wrong too.

Bump steer is minimized when everything is close to parallel, which happens significantly lower than where Mopar designed the factory ride height to be. But again, bias ply tire suspension geometry is a different animal that radial tire suspension geometry. The factory did what they did because it was best for bias ply's, and that's darn near opposite of what's best for radials.

B'cuda said
Thanks for all the input guys, I don't think I'm going much over an inch in height, it's a 69 fastback with super stock springs in back, and the rake makes the front look droopy with 15s to the top of the wheel opening. Underneath my old style Hedmans pick up grass from the center hump in our dirt road, yeehaa! But since it sounds like an alignment will ensue, I'll probably go ahead with new joints and bushings first, who knows, that in itself may pick it up abit of height.

You'll definitely need an alignment after you change the height that much. If your 15's are at the top of the wheel opening you're probably lower than the factory ride height spec, so raising it up some might not cause as many issues as we've talked about. If you haven't specifically set the ride height using the factory specs, I would wager your current ride height is lower than factory. Suspension settles over time, and kicking the back end up with Superstock springs puts more weight on the front end anyway.