318 into /6 '74 valiant sedan

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'74ValiantGirl

'74ValiantGirl

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Hubby has a 318 sitting around that I would like to put into my 4 door 74 valiant. My question to you guys is what all ACTUALLY goes into this? I have read so many posts and other articles that it's just become a big pool of goo all blended together in my brain. Some say you can't do it without changing the k-member others say to just use the schumacher mounts.
So here's my question to you
1. Do you have to change the k-member out or can I just buy the schumacher mounts?
2. What else is going to HAVE to be done along with this? I would love to have the 318 in there but if it's a **** ton of work and requires a lot of money then perhaps I should rethink. Thanks in advance!
 
1: either works.
2: get a bigger radiator.
3: need v8 trans
4: need drive shaft, it'll probably change

The rest is all little stuff.
 
There are people that argue, but that 7 1/4 sometimes fail with spirited driving. A good upgrade. Discs?? Me, I just start stopping earlier. I have used slant T bars on BB upgrades in B bodies , but I don't go around curves at 90 either. Lots of small things that can be upgraded as time goes on.
I love the slants but I also love the feel and sound of a v8, Its your time and $ , I vote go for it!!!!!
 
Engine mounts,brackets and a V-8 K-member is the biggest thing. Schumacher has adapter mounts to put that teener on the slanty K-member.
If the engines both have the same size transmissions, then the driveshaft should be fine. If the engine has no trans/convertor, well then, start hunting.
You will need a new exhaust system,duals recommended.
The 7.25 rear could be fine for a few decades more,so long as you don't peg-leg it.
A 318 will survive on the /6 rad, with a direct drive factory type steel fan of 5 blades or more.
The 74 should already have front disc brakes.
You will need the brackets for various things like P/S, the alternator, and A/C if she gots it, and transmission linkages and a V8 throttle cable.

This is about as easy as swap as there is, and I have done several.

Easy swap/easy money. Happy HotRodding
 
'74 Valiant slant? Did they not come standard with 9 in drum? Like said, easy swap , some bigger and lots of little things.
 
I don't know about in the USA, but up here the last year for front drums on sixers, IIRC was 1973. But in the USA, it mightabin 74. I guess Valiant girl will chime in soon and then the secret will be out.
 
It's not a simple job, aside from the already mentioned mounts, rad, transmission, exhaust, brackets, there's also wiring and connectors, coolant hoses, possibly oil pan (depending what you have) and pick-up tube, carb linkage, lots of little stuff. It isn't overwhelming, just makes the job seem to take longer every time you run into something that won't fit. For what it's worth, I'm still running the original K-member with Shumacher mounts, original 7.25 rear, original /6 radiator, original torsion bars (just had to crank them up a bit to allow for the header clearance) and original manual drum brakes. Car runs and drives great, but I'm not racing or pushing it - just enjoying it peacefully, fully aware it is far from bullet proof. I'll probably upgrade things like brakes and such as the years go by, but at least I have a car that I can drive (sensibly) for the time being.
 
just a heads up, even though a 318 feels like a big block compared to a slanty, it is a small block LA (you will need to know this when ordering the schumacher mounts) and the mods will probably move this into the small block section
 
barbee6043 said:
'74 Valiant slant? Did they not come standard with 9 in drum? Like said, easy swap , some bigger and lots of little things.
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AJ/FormS said:
I don't know about in the USA, but up here the last year for front drums on sixers, IIRC was 1973. But in the USA, it mightabin 74. I guess Valiant girl will chime in soon and then the secret will be out.
Click to expand...

In '74 a slant 6 car that didn't have a towing package would have come standard with 10" SBP drums. The UCA's would have been large ball joint though, it's a different spindle than the earlier drums. All the factory V8 cars got BBP disks starting in '73, but the /6 cars could still have drums if they didn't have an extra package that triggered disks all the way up through '75. '76 was the first year for front disks on everything in the US, and I think even then it was January of '76, so some of the earlier production '76, /6 cars might still have had drums.

'74ValiantGirl said:
Hubby has a 318 sitting around that I would like to put into my 4 door 74 valiant. My question to you guys is what all ACTUALLY goes into this? I have read so many posts and other articles that it's just become a big pool of goo all blended together in my brain. Some say you can't do it without changing the k-member others say to just use the schumacher mounts.
So here's my question to you
1. Do you have to change the k-member out or can I just buy the schumacher mounts?
2. What else is going to HAVE to be done along with this? I would love to have the 318 in there but if it's a **** ton of work and requires a lot of money then perhaps I should rethink. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

- Conversion engine mounts from Schumacher work fine, you don't need to change the K. A 318 will require slant6 to small block conversion mounts

  • Radiator has different inlet/outlet locations. A stock 318 can probably be handled by a /6 radiator, a higher horspower 318 probably not so much. Radiator hoses may be a challenge to using the /6 radiator with the small block V8, they won't be stock
  • transmission is different, you need a small block transmission (auto) or bellhousing (manual)
  • driveshaft will be the same unless you change type of transmissions- ie, /6 904 to a sb 904 or even an 833 manual can use the same driveshaft, but a 904 to a 727 will not. If you change the rear axle you'll need to shorten the driveshaft or possibly source a new one
  • exhaust will need to be re-worked at the least, but that would be more work than it's worth. Converting to dual exhaust would be easier (but more expensive)
  • all the accessory brackets will be different. If you get a complete 318 with accessories that's no big deal. If you get just a block, you may spend a bunch of money on brackets and pulleys.
  • oil pan has to be for a car, so if you do buy a complete 318 you might still need an oil pan if your donor is a truck
  • wiring and connectors are no big deal. I still have the /6 wiring harness in my '74 after swapping to a 340 small block. I know I re-routed a few wires, I don't recall if I had to lengthen any though. A few can actually be shortened, it depends on whether or not the car had electronic ignition and things too
  • A 7.25 will hold up ok for awhile if you're not flogging it. I the 7.25" in my '74 with a stock 318 and then with a 400+hp 340 for a bit, it was even a peg-legger. I was breaking in the 340 at the time, and I drove it like I knew I could destroy the rear end if I beat on it. Long term you'll probably want a different rear axle
 
'74ValiantGirl said:
Hubby has a 318 sitting around that I would like to put into my 4 door 74 valiant. My question to you guys is what all ACTUALLY goes into this? I have read so many posts and other articles that it's just become a big pool of goo all blended together in my brain. Some say you can't do it without changing the k-member others say to just use the schumacher mounts.
So here's my question to you
1. Do you have to change the k-member out or can I just buy the schumacher mounts?
2. What else is going to HAVE to be done along with this? I would love to have the 318 in there but if it's a **** ton of work and requires a lot of money then perhaps I should rethink. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Schumacher makes a nice set but there are also kits from Adaptec. I have not used the Adaptec before but they are cheaper than the Schumacher mounts.
If the slant has a 904 automatic and the 318 has a 904 that might make the swap easier as they should be the same length which would allow you to use the same drive shaft.

Mike
 
Dart/Valiant said:
It would be less complicated to keep the car original...
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It would be less complicated to not have a classic car at all, so if that’s your argument why bother?

Part of having a classic car is working on it. While there’s nothing wrong with a /6, upgrading the car to a V8 will improve it’s appeal and value. And make it more fun to drive IMO, which is the whole point of having a classic to begin with. A 4 door /6 car is pretty much at the bottom of the value-for-originality scale. They’re literally donor cars for most folks, so anything that improves the value and drivability of the car is a win in my book. Why discourage that?
 
72bluNblu said:
It would be less complicated to not have a classic car at all, so if that’s your argument why bother?

Part of having a classic car is working on it. While there’s nothing wrong with a /6, upgrading the car to a V8 will improve it’s appeal and value. And make it more fun to drive IMO, which is the whole point of having a classic to begin with. A 4 door /6 car is pretty much at the bottom of the value-for-originality scale. They’re literally donor cars for most folks, so anything that improves the value and drivability of the car is a win in my book. Why discourage that?
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All true. Unless it is a total survivor slant car, original EVERYTHING< perfect,,, the slant cars are at the bottom of the collectability pile. Stock?, yes lacks a bunch on power. But as you know some of us enjoy it for what it is. Years back, I would have argued what is the fun in any small block??? But that was before the stroker. Stock 340? I had way more fun in a stock 383 4 speed Runner with 3:55 or 3:91 gears , and the 440 cars and occasional hemi car. It is all relative.
This subject has ben argued till it is like beating a dead horse. There are purists that hate anything not totally stock right on down the line to every thing has been customized.
Easier to leave a good running slant, but lke said, many in or hobby love to work on them. You can sit down and roughly figure all the costs in changing it over. Most parts have been listed. Me I always have several cars, from slants to something faster, sometimes OEM, sometimes I changed it over. It is the hobby.
 
If the 318 is stock, then I would not worry over the rear axle; it should hold fine with a stock 318, and if it does blow due tot he OP being overly enthusiastic, then it can be replaced. And I would use the radiator as-is to start with and see how it does.

Stock exhaust has to go... too small a diameter.
 
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