72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto

The following will probably sound a little snarky, so please pardon any perceived attitude:

moparmat2000 said
Unless your planning on high HP and a stick shift. The shock loading from running a high HP V8 with a standard shift can break the back end of the crank if its cast.

Which is why I phrased my reply the way I did. High HP is a subjective term when talking to different people, but the reality is that unless you're beating the absolute **** out of it (routine 6500+ rpm clutch sidesteps/shifts), a properly balanced and prepped stock 318 casting is still a beefy unit and more than well enough equipped to handle up to and including the number I threw out above, and I'll stand by that assertion until you show me more than anecdotal evidence that one *needs* a forged crank for building a mild or even healthy 318/340.

...even a 400hp 318 would be more than enough to yield lots of smiles, and not break the bank.

knote72 said
Yeah I know that for a street engine a cast crank will do and about half the price, I just first wanna see if this one can be saved, and if it's still cheaper than buying a new one. I got it in an electrolysis bath right now to pull off as much rust as is safely possible Rust removal by electrolysis

...you do you boo boo, but if you're spending more than $200 for a ready to go cast 318/340 crank (apart from balancing, which you'll need to spend anyway for any engine you actually care about), you're overpaying. And yes, the cast 318 crank shares part numbers with the 73 340 castings

Having a forged crank is great, but at what cost? If you have to have it retreated due to grinding, how much more will you spend?