Tire/wheel size question for 65 Dart

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zephyr

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I've only had my 65 Dart GT vert for a short time but wanted to upgrade to front discs so I bought a used set of 14" wheels and tires from a member here. When I went to remove the first original 13" tire, rear driver's side, I found that the tire on the car would BARELY come off. I had never tried it before but clearly the 13's it came with are at the maximum that can fit on the car. They are P185/80 R13. The ones I just bought, on Rallye wheels, are 205/70R 14. These, of course, come nowhere near going on the car due to the distance between the drum and the wheel opening. I must me missing something because I've read dozens of posts about upgrading early As to 14" wheels. What gives?
Vance
 
Really? I have 225/70-15's on the rear of my 66. Same wheel opening. Those 185/80's are fairly tall. Did you jack the car up on the axle and not the chassis?

New 15" rear tires

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I should have the jack under the axle?
No. The weight of the car is on the axle and the tires are stuffed up in the wheel houses. Jack on the axle but put stands under the front spring hanger to allow the axle and springs to relax. Plenty of room.
 
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Ok, it worked! Jack under the axle and then jack stand under the chassis. How about the front? Jack under the K member? Stand?
I'll be doing the other three in the morning, it's 101 degrees out. I can't wait to see the car with new wheels.
Thanks much.
 
Ok, it worked! Jack under the axle and then jack stand under the chassis. How about the front? Jack under the K member? Stand?
I'll be doing the other three in the morning, it's 101 degrees out. I can't wait to see the car with new wheels.
Thanks much.
You can jack in the center of the crossmember. Just be careful that the rear wheels are blocked and the jack pad doesn't slip. You can also jack on each side under the lower control arms or the front torque box areas whichever you prefer. Don't forget to show us some before and after pics.
 
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Got em all on, I think these are going to work great. I did find two hubs with one each broken flush studs. Don't know how big a deal this will be to get fixed or just how big a deal it is in general.

Here's some before and after pics. Thanks again Toolmanmike for your help
 
View attachment 1715204512 View attachment 1715204512 View attachment 1715204513 Got em all on, I think these are going to work great. I did find two hubs with one each broken flush studs. Don't know how big a deal this will be to get fixed or just how big a deal it is in general.

Here's some before and after pics. Thanks again Toolmanmike for your help
They look great! You're welcome. I bet the broken studs are on the drivers side. Time to convert the left side studs/nuts to right hand. Good lookin' Dart Vance.
 
Yeah, the broken studs are on the drivers side. I'd like to convert to all RH but is that a major PIA? I don't have a place to do much work myself so I'm going to be looking for a shop to do it. Would that be a wheel/tire shop or what?
 
So were the left hand studs sheared off because somebody tried to force them the opposite direction?
 
So were the left hand studs sheared off because somebody tried to force them the opposite direction?
of course......Just get 2 LH's and pull them back in. These are swedged in so removing them is no easy task if the guy does not have the right swedge cutter tool. Grind off the back and tap them out the front. There is a 'bubble' where the swedge is right under the threads and if you hammer it out the back, youll enlarge the original knurl. Measure whats left of the knurl and get the 2 correct studs. Tap them in and then use the lug nuts to pull them through and seat them. Spending 50 bucks plus labor cost/time and risking damage to the hub in order to turn 2 nuts the other way doesnt make much sense to me.
swedge.jpg

PS>> I drew threads wrong way....habit.

Wheel stud swedge cutting tool

ST-437-500-562.jpg
 
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