Alum intake corrosion ( prevention)

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A sacrificial anode in the radiator will only protect the radiator unless it is bonded to the rest of the system with a connecting wire, the hoses act like an insulator. If you want to protect the intake the anode needs to be in the intake.
 
evans is pure glycol (IIRC) and its 'wetter' than water, ie. lower surface tension so it does tend to weep out of lesser motors. Sort of like ATF, that stuff will leak out a hairline crack and is illegal on most tracks.
 
daliant said:
A sacrificial anode in the radiator will only protect the radiator unless it is bonded to the rest of the system with a connecting wire, the hoses act like an insulator. If you want to protect the intake the anode needs to be in the intake.
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The radiator is bonded by being grounded to the radiator support.
 
You do NOT want to use powder coat on any surface that is internal to the engine or cooling system.

If the corrosion you're worried about is in the cooling system, replace your coolant, or it's additives, every two years, and get the magnesium sacrificial anode, which does NOT need to be grounded. Galvanic corrosion is about preference, not connection. If there is a more readily available source of electrons in the system, that's where they're going to come from.

If you're worried about the exterior of the aluminum parts, oil them, paint them, or powder them with the caveat noted above. This is called barrier protection. Like condoms.

Anodizing works but is expensive if done properly on something that large, and DEFINITELY hard to do on something that large if you're at home. And it seems to not do so well underhood, long term.
 
Also use heavy water. Tap water is t recommend.
 
Don't get caught with coolant in your car at a drag way. If you put it down it is usually your last pass at that track .
 
Treblig said:
DYI:



But be careful
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Anodizing works to a point. But its the water jacket and water passage area thats what he is talking about more than the outside of the intake. Anodizing will not last very long by itself in that type of environment.

Watching the PH level, and using a zinc anode in the cooling system works, as well as using the new antifreeze made for aluminum radiators and engines. This stuff is prob set at the correct PH to not corrode anything. Get 50/50 ready to go mix so as to not screw up the pre set PH.

I also sandblasted this passage on my intake, then coated the inside with an aircraft fluid resistant epoxy primer. Tough as nails when baked on. No problems.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Don't get caught with coolant in your car at a drag way. If you put it down it is usually your last pass at that track .
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It's a stupid rule. Evans is no more difficult to clean up than any other antifreeze. It's not like a 1320 foot powerglide oil down has never happened.

If a track requires I don't use Evans I leave. Unless the track wants to write me checks for my **** and is paying for it, the track can kiss my arse.
 
jos51700 said:
You do NOT want to use powder coat on any surface that is internal to the engine or cooling system.

If the corrosion you're worried about is in the cooling system, replace your coolant, or it's additives, every two years, and get the magnesium sacrificial anode, which does NOT need to be grounded. Galvanic corrosion is about preference, not connection. If there is a more readily available source of electrons in the system, that's where they're going to come from.

If you're worried about the exterior of the aluminum parts, oil them, paint them, or powder them with the caveat noted above. This is called barrier protection. Like condoms.

Anodizing works but is expensive if done properly on something that large, and DEFINITELY hard to do on something that large if you're at home. And it seems to not do so well underhood, long term.
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I also recommend the annode. I had a leak around my thermostat on my 440. Turns out the aftermarket thermostat housing corroded through. I started using the annode, and using an additive like water wetter to control the electrolysis, and no more issues. Also, you can find these at boat supply houses.
 
yellow rose said:
It's a stupid rule. Evans is no more difficult to clean up than any other antifreeze. It's not like a 1320 foot powerglide oil down has never happened.

If a track requires I don't use Evans I leave. Unless the track wants to write me checks for my **** and is paying for it, the track can kiss my arse.
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Street cars are allowed to run antifreeze. At least at the tracks I go to they are.
 
daliant said:
A sacrificial anode in the radiator will only protect the radiator unless it is bonded to the rest of the system with a connecting wire, the hoses act like an insulator. If you want to protect the intake the anode needs to be in the intake.
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Radiator and engine are both grounded to the body. They are therefore electrically connected through the body sheetmetal structure.
 
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