Measuring ride height

1969383S said
No 1/8 of difference A-B, of course 0 is the target when correctly measured. At what cost? It has been now been posted! Drop it low and you now have mush! Now you have to put the biggest bars you can find just to keep your slant from bottoming, remove the lower bump stops and modify everything else. Now both ball joints are at maximum operating angles to boot. That would not be my approach unless I was looking to build something more than a street pounder that drives nicely. There are always give and takes. Venture to bet most want a nice driving street pounder not a canyon carver or F1 car. JMO!

Yup, that's just your opinion, an a misinformed one at that.

Lowering the car has no effect on the spring rate
Cars with slant6 bars will bottom the suspension straight from factory ride height. So will cars with V8 bars. I've had both, they both bottomed easily, and they do not "drive nicely"
The ball joint angles work just fine, I've run well over 80k miles on between my Challenger and my Duster, both riding that low, and have yet to wipe out a single ball joint. Tell Ehrenberger to pound sand with his "ball joint overangling" BS and publish the geometry numbers.

My cars spend all their time on the street and drive just fine. If you set up the suspension properly, you can fix all of the factory suspension design shortcomings that come from running radials on a car with suspension that was originally designed for bias ply's. Using the factory geometry and running radials simply doesn't give you a good handling car. There's a reason so many of these cars end up wrapped around telephone poles, and it's not because they "drive nicely".