71 Dart rear brakes staying on...

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LivewireBlanco

LivewireBlanco

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Having a problem with my rear brakes staying on. I can drive around a bit then they will decide to stay on. I can let off the brakes and my car will sit still. Lifted up the rear end in neutral and I have to give a lot of effort to move both rear tires and they wont spin freely. Think it's the rear brake cylinders? I don't know if they've ever been changed.
 
You need to post your car year/ make model, and what you have for brakes, IE stock drum, optional factory discs, "whatver" disc conversion, etc

Sticking cylinders, swollen plugged hoses/ lines, stuck corroded/ rusted prop valve, problems in master cylinder, runs the gamet

First thing I'd try is "get ready." That is, get tools you need to crack a rear bleeder if you can or the rear hose fitting. Get the thing "stuck." Then as quick as possible, loosen the fitting, see if you relieve pressure in the tube/ hose and see if that releases the brakes. If not, problem is right there in the rear...........shoes, hardware, stuck, rusted, cylinders, etc.
 
Auto adjusters are on the wrong side. Every time you apply the brake going forward you tighten the pads just my guess
 
67Dart273 said:
You need to post your car year/ make model, and what you have for brakes, IE stock drum, optional factory discs, "whatver" disc conversion, etc

Sticking cylinders, swollen plugged hoses/ lines, stuck corroded/ rusted prop valve, problems in master cylinder, runs the gamet

First thing I'd try is "get ready." That is, get tools you need to crack a rear bleeder if you can or the rear hose fitting. Get the thing "stuck." Then as quick as possible, loosen the fitting, see if you relieve pressure in the tube/ hose and see if that releases the brakes. If not, problem is right there in the rear...........shoes, hardware, stuck, rusted, cylinders, etc.
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Swollen internal failure, would be my guess.
 
Passenger side

20180709_133347.jpg
 
Check the hydraulic hose from the rear end to the frame. They are known to collapse internally, they will let pressure in but not release. crack the fitting at the T on the rear housing. See if they release.
 
How about the parking brake? If the cables are a bit sticky, and you use the parking brake, the rear brakes will get tight on you. Just make sure the P Brake completely releases.
 
harrisonm said:
How about the parking brake? If the cables are a bit sticky, and you use the parking brake, the rear brakes will get tight on you. Just make sure the P Brake completely releases.
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I know it's not the parking brake because I wasn't using them before they locked up.
 
There is a ton of rust on everything. Perhaps disassemble and wire wheel everything. Lube the pivot /slide points. That way you can check yhe cylenders too
 
If it’s both rear brakes, it’s almost certainly the rubber line going from the body to the axle.

If if were a wheel cylinder it would be one side or the other, and if you didn’t remove the adjusters when you pulled the drums that’s not it. Plus the adjusters wouldn’t ever release.

The rubber line will slowly bleed the pressure back off to the master cylinder. So if it sits and then you drive it it’s ok for awhile, then the pressure slowly builds up and locks the brakes.

67Dart273 gave you the method to figure it out.
 
Dana67Dart said:
There is a ton of rust on everything. Perhaps disassemble and wire wheel everything. Lube the pivot /slide points. That way you can check yhe cylenders too
Click to expand...
How do I verify that they work properly? At this point I should probably just do a complete brake job on them. I don't know any of the vehicle's service history.
 
72bluNblu said:
If it’s both rear brakes, it’s almost certainly the rubber line going from the body to the axle.

If if were a wheel cylinder it would be one side or the other, and if you didn’t remove the adjusters when you pulled the drums that’s not it. Plus the adjusters wouldn’t ever release.

The rubber line will slowly bleed the pressure back off to the master cylinder. So if it sits and then you drive it it’s ok for awhile, then the pressure slowly builds up and locks the brakes.

67Dart273 gave you the method to figure it out.
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That's exactly what happens. It locks up, I park it. The next day it's not locked anymore.
 
LivewireBlanco said:
How do I verify that they work properly? At this point I should probably just do a complete brake job on them. I don't know any of the vehicle's service history.
Click to expand...

That’s not a “ton of rust”. That’s pretty much what any drum brake set up looks like if it isn’t brand new. It’s not pretty, but I don’t see anything that would indicate a problem. Nothing is leaking, nothing is broken.

I wouldn’t worry about the individual drums. If there was a hardware problem, it would only be on one side. The odds of having the hardware or even the wheel cylinders fail at the exact same time on both sides is slim and next to none.

LivewireBlanco said:
That's exactly what happens. It locks up, I park it. The next day it's not locked anymore.
Click to expand...

Then I would say the rubber hose that goes from the body to the axle is the problem. Certainly worth changing, they’re pretty inexpensive.
 
I have seen rubber brake lines swell up and cause this exact issue. Seen it on several occasions. Many years ago I drove myself crazy trying to figure out why the brakes were locking up. Pre-internet days so I had to figure it out on my own.
Replace that rubber line and I bet your problem goes away.
 
Rubber hose or sticky wheel cylinders. Always good to freshen up the fluid. Bleed them after you fix the problem.
 
Have you checked the hose yet? ;-)

I see it has been posted a few times, it is a very common issue.
 
I'll go ahead and swap that hose. It sounds like it from what y'all are saying. I'm sure it needs it. Car has never been restored AMD I'm sure it's original.
 
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