small block heads, 4027596 casting # any good??

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To the OE poster, I know I said I was out of the post, but my 2 cents is with Moper on this.

Also, alot depends on your combobation and intended purpose.
 
Go with a 2.05 valve and get a 5 angle VJ, Don't try to grind the pushrod pinch out ! just take about .030 to .060 or so and blend, if you remove it, it will window the port or be so thin that it will crack. don't be swayed by talk of the 2.05" being to big and loosing bottom end, you will gain 8 cfm's or a little more from the start of valve opening, all the way up to max lift.
 
OH, I alsomost forgot, skip the polishing andwhat is your combo?
IMO, stock 1.88 valves can go along way. So if new valves are not in the budget yet, keep'em if there good. If not or money comes in, you could get larger valves.
 
ya i guess i havn't mentioned much about that yet, my intended purpose is mostly street but i hope to get it out to the track every once in a while. I'd like it to perform well you know, it may be a street car but i'll need to back up what i say right lol. I'd love to see it get to 12 seconds in the 1/4. So far my combo hasn't been decided on yet. I guess i'll be doing things to it as the funds come along. for the short term i just want to get the 360 (bone stock) in for the spring and get it running again. Any other suggestions on combos are open for debate as well. For now the rotating assembly will stay stock and it won't be bored out, i'll say that now. It will be a 904 or 727, i have both so whichever will be an easier rebuilt, and an 8 3/4, not sure of a gear set yet, i don't want any higher then 3.91 cause it needs to be street friendly. Other then that everyone is entitled to their opinions, i'm taking everyones opinions into factor, but please don't kill each other. thanks again guys
 
rumblefish360 said:
OH, I alsomost forgot, skip the polishing andwhat is your combo?
IMO, stock 1.88 valves can go along way. So if new valves are not in the budget yet, keep'em if there good. If not or money comes in, you could get larger valves.
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pretty much what i said. no? and i added a link for him about porting later 360 LA heads. yah.. guess i did ruin the post. my appologies.
 
You will make much more usbale power by having the heads redone properly than by cutting corners and trying to port them too. You dont neede ported heads to run deep in the 12s. If you assume they will need guides, valves, springs, locks, retainers, guides trimmed, spring seats cut, and milled... you're close to reality. The 5-angle valve job does about 60% of what bowl porting does anyway. Be realistic in the build and you won't be disappointed.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
pretty much what i said. no? and i added a link for him about porting later 360 LA heads. yah.. guess i did ruin the post. my appologies.
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Sorry there bud. I didn't see your post in full.
Long morning. Truck craped out and wouldn't strat. My fault. I put on a new cap and rotor on the Dakota and I bent the tab on the rotor. It ran for a day until the spark from the coil couln't make the gap anymore.

I'm kind of shot right now after a long night at work. My appologies!
 
alright guys, after doing a little more reaserch and a little more reading on some other threads i'm getting to wonder if i'd be better off saving up longer and buying a nice set of aluminum aftermarkets after all. I got to thinking that after i put all the money into these stock heads, i may have more money into them then it would have cost me for a good set of aftermakets. whats your guys take on that?
 
74scamp360 said:
Hey guys i'm looking for some advice on heads for a small block. I'm putting a 360 in my scamp come spring and am wondering about these heads. They are casting # 4027596. I did a little reaserch and from what i was able to find they are hp. 360 heads, came on cop cars, trucks vans etc. Is that correct? I'm a young guy (17) and am looking to get all i can out of this motor but money is super tight. I've been working on a trade for my /6 stuff to a guy and he had these heads he wanted to trade. I know that j heads are really the best thing to get a hold of but really i don't have the money that most people want for them. I guess what i'm asking is are these heads worth doing anything with? I'd love to try and get a nice port and polish on them and bigger valves, somewhere in the area of 2.02/1.60's, you guys know the deal. Let me know what you think. Thanks in advance!!
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After listening to YOUR questions and intended purpose, I would recommend you use the 596 heads. They have hardened exhaust seats, the large ports, 1.88 intake valves, and 1.60 exhaust valves. In my humble opinion, for a street car / every day driver, I'd want cast iron heads and a Carb with an automatic choke. 340 or 360 4 barrel intakes work great and you can get the choke to be dead on with a little work. Get a good valve job and use valve springs for your cam. I'd suggest no higher lift than .500 so you can use viton valve seals. Get a cam about 268/.450 up to 280/.500 and use a good double roller timing chain. Repace all the seals and gaskets while the engine is out. Put in a High pressure oil pump and windage tray if you can afford it. You'll make enough power to have to use the 727 trans and still get decent MPG on the highway. Good luck.
 
A-BOMB360 said:
flow to .450" becouse thats when the #'s nose over. X-heads flow right to .550" typical would be anyother LA head.
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Can't agree with that mate - I had my factory as cast 596s with a 1.88 valve, they flowed to 202 cfm @ .500 @ 28"

Porting with a 1.96 took them to 231 @ .550

A 2.02 then took them to 243 @ .550

The porting wasn't a high dollar exercise , basically just paid for X # of hours. -

I guess each bench can be different though.....
 
Old thread.
Just talked to a buddy who uses 596 heads with 1.88 intake valve.
Car has been 9.60’s with them at 2700 ish pounds on a stock stroke 340.
 
B3422w5 said:
Old thread.
Just talked to a buddy who uses 596 heads with 1.88 intake valve.
Car has been 9.60’s with them at 2700 ish pounds on a stock stroke 340.
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That's impressive. Do you know the MPH by any chance?
 
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387dart said:
the 596s are a good late model 360 head - put a 2.00 intake (cutback 2.02)and a 1.60 exh valve with a bowl hog and blend and some cleanup of the runners - they will work better than any J or X.
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The exhaust port will work better, but I'd stop there. Its splitting hairs in the intake side.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
Well, I would get a nice set of ENGINE PRO valves, bronze guide liners, hardened seats on the exhaust and some viton positive seals to go with the cutting down and machining the guides to .530, do some porting , then cc and mill/correct if necessary to the desired chamber volume.

Intake port-Finding the peak [tallest part/beginning of the short turn] and just roll it around towards the seat but don't touch the VJ angles.
The push rod pinch should to be ground straight and the rest of the wall blended into the bowl. the roof and guide boss kink can be ground higher and more smoothly turn down into the bowl. The guides can be skinny'd up quite a bit, keep the guide long with an edge at the beginning then rolled/roundish the last 3rd towards the V stem.


The exhaust guide can be ground out completely,,but leave some right above the ssr then go up to the kink that can be straightened out a bit too .You can feel through the freeze plug hole on each end port to gauge with your fingers, you can take around .080 out. Then short turn just wants to roll a hair off the seat then straight up and just 'slightly' rolled/lipped at the top. Polish the crap out of the exhaust port if you'd like..itll fend off carbon build up

Just some advice.
have fun
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Engine Pro good.
Ferrea sucks.
 
Hysteric said:
That's impressive. Do you know the MPH by any chance?
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i know he is well over 130 with it, but forget exactly how much. Been a while
He is going to run it now with a thermoquad on it he has been messing around with. Should be interesting.
He zings it like a superstock mill. Its high rpm deal
 
B3422w5 said:
Old thread.
Just talked to a buddy who uses 596 heads with 1.88 intake valve.
Car has been 9.60’s with them at 2700 ish pounds on a stock stroke 340.
Click to expand...
Obviously a well sorted out and very light weight race car. That’s the kind of weight I’m looking to get to with my ‘71 Duster.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Obviously a well sorted out and very light weight race car. That’s the kind of weight I’m looking to get to with my ‘71 Duster.
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Yes, its well sorted out. Vic is a rocket scientist. Pretty sure the car 60 foots 1.2xx
But, its still a 20 over 340 with 1.88 heads he built himself in all facets. Car would still run 9’s if it was 3000 pounds.
It probably accounts for all the misunderstanding about the heads he did i was crowing about..when people didn't like the amount of stuff i didn't know about .
them.
What i did know is this guy spent 2 years perfecting them, on and off the flow bench and dyno, and i knew how sharp he is .. that amount of HIS effort is gonna be something you want.
This car shows how what he does works…very, very well.
 
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B3422w5 said:
Yes, its well sorted out. Vic is a rocket scientist. Pretty sure the car 60 foots 1.2xx
But, its still a 20 over 340 with 1.88 heads he built himself in all facets. Car would still run 9’s if it was 3000 pounds.
It probably accounts for all the misunderstanding about the heads he did i was crowing about..when people didn't like the amount of stuff i didn't know about .
them.
What i did know is this guy spent 2 years perfecting them, on and off the flow bench and dyno, and i knew how sharp he is .. that amount of HIS effort is gonna be something you want.
This car shows how what he does works…very, very well.
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Now they just need to market them (redone bloomer heads) to the public and we all have access to a bad *** head. I for one would pass over some of the features of the trick flow head for a head I knew would make 30-40 more hp and was still somewhat close to the price. I don't however have the money to spend a grand more and not really have any recourse if it doesn't perform (I'm sure it would) but that's why edelbrocks will always outsell everything, it's a well marketed/warrantied part.
 
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