^^^^^^^^^^This is correct. Done PROPERLY the sleeved cylinder will probably have the most integrity of all the cylinders. Sleeving is a simple process but requires precision and a machinist that can hit their marks dead on. For example you just don't bore a hole and slam a sleeve in. You determine with a sonic check if the major and minor thrusts will favour a slight offset. Then you setup the cylinder and bore the hole (leaving a step at the bottom) while also leaving .002"-.003" interference-based on measuring the sleeve first. The boring tip will leave a chamfer at the step so before breaking setup I have to change tips to a counterbore style that will square up that chamfer at the step. Then I measure the length of the cylinder (usually 6") and install the sleeve in the lathe and part off the excess from the non-chamfered side of the sleeve leaving me about .125" that will protrude from the deck after install. Then the sleeve gets cleaned and tossed in the freezer for a few hours or overnight. Then the cylinder gets thoroughly cleaned and dried. When the time is right, I get my sleeve driver (which is a 2" thick disc of aluminum with a 1" bolt through it), BFH (2lb sledge), PPE (gloves, glasses, ear defenders) sitting on the deck of the block. Then I smear Permatex green sleeve retainer stuff all over the crack. Then I don all my PPE, walk to the freezer (about 40' away) run back to the boring mill and beat the sleeve until I feel it bottom. With any luck at this point the sleeve will protrude about .100-.125" and I proceed with the same counterbore cutter to machine the excess off as close to the deck as I dare. If the block is not getting decked then I finish with a nice sharp large file. The sleeve is then bored to within .005" of final size and the block then moves to the CK-10 for honing. When all is said and done if I did the job right you cannot tell where the sleeve is. I am sure I am forgetting some of the steps but it is simple but not easy to execute at least based on some of the sleeve jobs I have seen. I charge by the hour and the last sleeve I did two weeks ago (BBC 468 lots of nitrous) cost $600+ sleeve. If you are worried about the job have the shop pressure test it afterwards--I only do that if I have any doubt if I "got" all of the crack.
Sorry for the wall of text--to make a long story longer--have it sleeved it will be fine. J.Rob
