If you are running shims now that means your geometry was wrong and you made it worse. You can NOT just move the shaft up and no I don't care that it's only .015.
If you use your imagination picture a line through the centerline of the valve going up to a length of 1 FOOT above the tip of the valve. Now (for the ease of picturing what we are discussing) imagine your rockers are mounted with junk studs. Run an imaginary line up from the rocker stud centerline up 1 FOOT from the top of the rocker.
Now, where do the two lines intersect? Most likely, no more that 4-5 inches from the top of the valve.
That means when you shim the start UP, without moving the shaft AWAY from the valve you are ******* up the geometry WAY worse that it even was when you started.
I apologize for the F bomb but dammit, you have to stop and think about what you are doing. Too many Chrysler guys just don't get rocker geometry and even more don't care. If Dave Hughes gave a **** he wouldn't sell junk shims like that. Not that you got them from him but I know he sells them and he and I have had several heated discussions when he tells guys his rockers fix geometry (which they don't) and they are close enough to to shim with a flat shim (they ain't).
So unless you want to keep screwing **** up, STOP STOP STOP and fix the dam geometry. I know, for a FACT you stuff is wrong and wrong is WRONG WRONG WRONG.
Call Mike at B3 racing engines and let him help you.he makes a kit that is economical and works like jack the bear. Stop and call him and fix this NOW.
BTW, I get nothing from Mike, ask nothing from Mike and expect nothing from Mike. But when another engine builder makes a product so damn good and so economical I send anyone his way I can for the sake or YOUR engine.
The guy is smart and a damn good guy. He will help you.
Now STOP and fix your geometry.
