Rocker Decision

nm9stheham said

Part of the trick to getting close is to try to account for the effective closing point of the intake valve (discussed in the middle of the page that you linked). For example, I'll subtract 8-10 degrees from advertised duration for a solid cam to account for lash, and put that into the Pat Kelley calculator.
It is not a perfect science. But you have to do something to get in the ballpark with DCR if you want to know what you are going to have.

Click to expand...

That much, Eh?
I had heard those numbers before, but I've never run a solid. ........Although I once put some USED 273 solids and adjusters on a factory 340 automatic cam,lol. I think that was about 1975.
I've been using 6* on the Voodoos for purposes of comparison. I was thinking it wasn't enough but have only bumbled around in the dark with those occasionally, and not to the point of it's being critical.
But then; I use the .006 FTH numbers mostly as gospel too,and assuming the lifter is fully self-adjusted to zero lash, knowing full well the valves may not be fully closed yet. That's all I got to work with. I do the best I can. My main concern is always that JoeMopar (not his real name,lol) doesn't stick a 292/108 in his 8/1 teener,lol, and to explain,using examples, why that is a bad idea; including that it's a PITA and expensive mistake to make.
Thanks for disclosure.
If there is a next cam for my combo, it will be a solid. I have been itching for a decade to run one, but my 230FTH won't die, daymnit.