How to make a hard headliner.......Marty's way!

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Martythetrimmer

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I've made a few hard headlining's over the years and people ask how it's done. Here's a step by step of the way I do it to make a light weight lining that fits properly and looks like it belongs! A week ago I bought a VC sedan roof turret (a ute roof being to hard to find) to modify to the same size as the ute’s roof to make a plug from which a mould will be made, to make a hard head lining as per late model cars….this is to incorporate a VE Commodore interior light that will run off a Dakota digital controller to give full theatre lighting….i.e. the lights will fade up and down with the door opening, turn on as the ignition is switched off & run for 45 seconds before turning themselves off as most late cars do….this is the progress in the first 7 days!

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Forgot I hadn’t put up a pic. or any information about the ute…..it’s a 1967 heavy duty VC Dodge, these were the working man’s version of the VC Valiant ute….the Valiant had a 225 with auto or manual trans, and the basic features of the time….the Dodge also had the 225, but manual trans only, heavier suspension than the Valiant with it being the same as the big block Barracuda’s of the same year, they also could carry more load, but they were basic! No chrome at all, factory painted bumpers, dash facia, hub caps & tail lights…less than 1,000 Dodge’s were built with most being worked to death over the years, so these are quite rear now…mine’s being modified with a V8 O/D auto trans, rack & pinion steering, A/C, along with many modern luxury appointments…..

here’s a link to my build page…. Aussie VC 67 Dodge ute

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Head liner update #3…..slow part of the job this week, fitted the raised section for the interior lights & lots of final fill and sand, getting down to final details and last sand ready for paint before making the mould….

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Great thread Marty. I can move this thread to the "how to" section when you're done if you like. Just send me a PM.
 
A small up important update this week…the plug is now finished, primer applied as well as the finish coat….mould casting next week end…..

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Awesome work. For some reason I thought this was going to be a description of how to do it the easy way. I don't think I could do this, then again I've also never worked with fiberglass before.
 
Update #6….I was hoping to show the finished liner covered and in place….a family tragedy in NZ means I have to make a trip back, so work is halted for a couple of weeks…this is where it’s gotten to….

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Awesome work Marty!!! Would you share what you use for wax and release agent? How do you apply the resin? Is it sprayed? I want to build some fiberglass door panels for my Duster and this thread is gold for me!!!

Cley
 
no problems Cley, encouraging others is what this thread is about….about to head off to work but I’ll write it up & post tonight….here’s a couple of custom door panels I’ve made over the years…..

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Ok Cley….I presume you’re new to fibreglassing, building a plug (the original item to make a mould from) can be done from several materials…for this project I used, mdf, cardboard, fiberglass, fabric, & bondo! once completed and painted I use a high quality wax that is formulated for the fiberglass industry….I use an Aussie brand K&H, but any high quality fibreglassing wax will do….K&H recommend 4-5 coats of wax, but as I use another release agent over top I normally only apply 2 good layers of wax…next I spray PVA release agent, it’s a lightly coloured liquid agent the dry’s into a film, I spray 2 light coats and allow to dry, then 2 slightly heavier coats so it flows out flat like a paint job would, you have to be careful now much you build as it can run which will show up in the mould and finished item….once dry I then spray a good coat of Gel coat .6 to 1mm depth, there are brush able gel coats but I find sprayable better…the resin is brushed on, a good layer direct on the dry gel coat, then lay down the matting, more resin and roll it flat….it’s best to lay up 2-3 layers while it’s still curing so as it bonds together (cross links) properly… I use 450gsm matting as it wets through fairly easily, I work on a ratio of 1Lt of resin to 1 square metre of matting, this gives the correct amount to wet the matting properly….I notice a lot of DIY guys in the US just brushing the resin on and leaving the matting lumpy, the then use what is called “Milkshake” it’s a mix of bondo and resin which they pour over the finished item and once dry they heavily sand it…at lot of work and dust, far easier to lay up the matting properly and roll it flat…it still needs to be finished but it’s far less work….
 
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