Low oil pressure?

I only advocate cross drilling a crank to correct the oil timing.

Since you drill cranks for a living, maybe you can shed some light on things pertaining to the oil feed passages in the crank.

If you take a SBC and a SBM crank and lay them side by each, you'll see that they are drilled exactly the same. If you look at the SBC block you'll notice (talking OE stuff here not the later stuff with priority main oiling but it's essentially the same) the oil feed hole in the block is at 12 o'clock looking from the front at the number one main bearing bore.

If you do the math, you'll find that the oil feed hole in the block lines up perfectly with the oil hole in the main journal and the piston would be about 70 degrees ATDC. That is full flow and full pressure to the rod, where peak load is.

Now look at a SBM. I don't have one right in front of me but from memory, the oil feed hole in the blow isn't at 12 o'clock. It's closer to 11:30 or maybe even 11:15 (I used to know how many degrees it was but its slipped my mind but the point is still made) which means, that full flow and full pressure to the rod bearings was too early, long before 70 degrees ATDC. This is because the oil feed hole in the main bearing is in exactly the same location as the SBC crank. If you could rotate the oil feed hole backwards, towards the 11 o'clock position, you would delay full flow and full pressure to the rods until about 70 degrees ATDC.

I've asked everyone from Callie's, Scat, Winberg and one other I forget, and they all said they same thing...you can't move the oil feed hole in the main journal that far back and get it to line up with the correct location on the rod throw.

Is this making sense? It's well established you need full oil at about 70 degrees ATDC. There should be no questions on that. The question becomes how do you make that happen on a small or big block MoPar short of Chrysler changing the oil feed holes in the block, which they did much later on in the R block series, where the adopted a priority main oiling system.

The best answer I've found is to block ALL the oil going to the mains from the passenger side oil gallery. All of it. Doesn't matter how it's done, it needs to be done. A simple set screw in the oil feed gallery from the number 1 main to the drivers side oil gallery will stop oil going there, as you don't need it.

The next step is to drill main caps 1-4 down through the center of the cap, so when the cap is installed, there will be a hole though the cap at the 6 o'clock position. Then, I made some changes to how this was done on the first engine I had. The guy who originated the fix drill a hole in the number 5 main cap on the passenger side directly into the feed passage that eventually leads to the filter. Doing it this way works, but you don't filter the oil going to the mains. The oil going other places gets filtered. So eventually all the oil gets filtered. Then, he made up a right angle fitting that screwed in to the cap. And from there he drilled 4 holes for 1/8 pipe and ran hoses from that common feed to the main bearing caps.

The last thing to do was cross drill the crank. Why? Because the oil timing would still be wrong if you are feeding oil at 6 o'clock but there was no hole in the main journal. In fact, it would be worse that what Chrysler did. Cross drilling simply relocated the feed hole in the main bearing with full pressure, full flow oil at the correct time. I should mention that you have to drill a hole in the lower main bearing shell and use full groove bearings. That way, you initiate flow before the holes line up.

You have now corrected the oil timing. It's simple to hide the system in the pan as it was done when I bought the engine. No one knew what was done. And it worked.

I eventually got tired of seeing trash in the bearings becaus they were getting unfiltered oil. So instead of a 1 inch diameter feed manifold in the pan coming off the main cap, I moved all that crap outside the pan. This also allowed me to run an externally adjustable pressure regulator on the system.

What I did was take a 3 inch diameter piece of aluminum tube about 8 inches long and welded a lid on both ends. On top, I welded in a number 10 fitting, and on the bottom I used 5 number 4 fittings.

Now, I ran the oil out of the block, through my Systems 1 oil filter, out of the filter to the top of my new, bigger manifold, and the five hoses fed each main. 1-4 going through the pan with bulkhead fittings and number 5 being fed right back into the block. I installed my external pressure regulator after the filter and could adjust the pressure to virtually anything I needed. And, all the oil to the bearings was filtered before it went to them.

That, in a nutshell is how I corrected the oil timing. I didn't design it. I just updated it a bit. If you want to turn 8500 and make power doing it, it's what you have to do. No other bullshit works.

So...my question for Duane is...can you move the oil feed hole in the main bearing journal backwards far enough so the oil holes line up at the correct time? With out throwing off the feed hole in the rod? I was always told no, because to me that would be an easier fix.

What do you think Duane?
I never put a degree wheel on to check how many degrees of rotation there was, but when we had this discussion about timing,
I was also reading guitar jones thread about slotting the bearings, and Charles Sanborns thread where he also slots the bearings.
I also was in the middle of assembling my own new motor.
I wanted to slot my bearings as well. This was the first time I have performed that mod. I had a friend wire edm the slots and I had tell him exactly what I wanted. Looking at where the original oil hole was in the bearing shell you are 100% correct the hole is not at 12 o'clock
More like 11:30 just as you say. But the counter bore is pretty much in the centre of the saddle. The original hole in the bearing shell is also at 11:30. So it became obvious that there is only one logical direction to go with the slot. Towards the 12 o'clock position and if memory serves if you make the slot to 1/2 inch length you are probably over to the 12:30 position.
My point about the counterbore in the saddle is that slotting the bearings would be pointless if the counterbore was not there to allow the oil flow over to the slotted position.
That's when it hit me that the reason slotting the bearing is claimed to be so beneficial is because you have improved that oil timing.
Now you can get full flow and pressure all the way from 11:30 to
The 12:30 position. The oil can flow underneath the bearing shell
All the way over to 12:30 position with full flow and pressure.
If my memory serves that counterbore overlaps the cam bearing feed hole that is at the 12:00 position.
As I said I 100% agree with what you say about the timing.
It would be very hard to fix the timing in the crankshaft. Those gun drills already come in at extreme angles on a round surface.
I suspect imho that Chrysler addressed the issue in the block with a running change and added that counterbore. Slotting the bearings imho just utilizes it.
But I could be wrong lol.
The sbm has much room for improvement in its oiling.
Hope I explained that clearly.