New 408 for the Flyfish
More progress, and more steps back again...
Progress: The 3\4" tap worked great, threads are cleaned up, no more issues. Oil filter adapter is on.
The lack of progress: Put the trans back in the car with converter, bolted it most of the way up and checked the converter for rotation...the converter still won't move. Removed trans again and measured the snout of the converter and the hole in the back of the crank. My measurements are not real accurate laying under the car with a micrometer, but the hole in the back of the crank and the snout of the converter are really close to the same size (about 1.815"). The converter goes in and out just fine on my old Eagle crank. I measured my old Eagle crank and it was a couple thousandths bigger, BUT it also has a beveled edge where the crank receives the snout of the converter (which makes it align easier). The Scat crank is just straight cut. Honestly, I have not been impressed with the aesthetic quality of the Scat forged crank vs the Eagle forged crank, and this is one more strike against the Scat crank.
So now I'm needing to shave 5-10 thou off of the converter snout...not sure how to do this. I may send it in to PTC for a refresh and ask them to do this at the same time...but for now....
Plan B:
I might make another post about this, but here goes....I have another converter. It is not right for the application, but it would work OK. It is a 10" that I used to use with my nitrous setup. It stalled ~3300 behind my old 360 (low 12's on motor). The snout on that converter is ~ 7-10 thou smaller, and it fits in the back of the crank very well. I'm thinking about using it just to get the car running this year, then swapping it out later with my 8" converter after I get it fixed...I know the car will be slower with the 10", but idk......is this a crazy idea?
More progress, and more steps back again...
Progress: The 3\4" tap worked great, threads are cleaned up, no more issues. Oil filter adapter is on.
The lack of progress: Put the trans back in the car with converter, bolted it most of the way up and checked the converter for rotation...the converter still won't move. Removed trans again and measured the snout of the converter and the hole in the back of the crank. My measurements are not real accurate laying under the car with a micrometer, but the hole in the back of the crank and the snout of the converter are really close to the same size (about 1.815"). The converter goes in and out just fine on my old Eagle crank. I measured my old Eagle crank and it was a couple thousandths bigger, BUT it also has a beveled edge where the crank receives the snout of the converter (which makes it align easier). The Scat crank is just straight cut. Honestly, I have not been impressed with the aesthetic quality of the Scat forged crank vs the Eagle forged crank, and this is one more strike against the Scat crank.
So now I'm needing to shave 5-10 thou off of the converter snout...not sure how to do this. I may send it in to PTC for a refresh and ask them to do this at the same time...but for now....
Plan B:
I might make another post about this, but here goes....I have another converter. It is not right for the application, but it would work OK. It is a 10" that I used to use with my nitrous setup. It stalled ~3300 behind my old 360 (low 12's on motor). The snout on that converter is ~ 7-10 thou smaller, and it fits in the back of the crank very well. I'm thinking about using it just to get the car running this year, then swapping it out later with my 8" converter after I get it fixed...I know the car will be slower with the 10", but idk......is this a crazy idea?
