Need input from the brain trust; fuel or ignition redux
troubleshooting an electronic ignition is no fun when you only want to drive the thing. Points are easy.
I almost suggested the OP try to troubleshoot the stock system and get that running AND THEN do the conversion. This might actually be a good idea.
"Some stuff" on points..........
Turn the key to "run"> Measure voltage at coil POS and coil NEG. If they are both "same as battery" or about 12V then the points are open or are not conducting. Remove the cap and inspect and bump the engine until the points are closed. Voltage at coil + should be somewhere in the 6--10V region, and coil NEG should be somewhere from "very low" to as much as a volt. (1 volt is actually high). If it's higher the points are not conducting, IE they are burned / dirty.
You MUST have a good condenser for the thing to make spark. There is no reliable way with simple equipment to test a condenser. Best thing is to buy one---or two---and try them.
You can also use a screwdrive/ jumper clip wire to mimic points opening. "Bump" the engine (keyin run) until coil NEG is "same as battery" You should be able to repeatedly short the coil NEG post to ground and get a "snap" nice spark each time. Do not test this with the coil wire........use a solid core wire "rigged" to a spark tester or opened up spark plug.
If this works, then get the points working. They must be gapped but you can do that by eye to test. Replace the condenser.
NOW measure coil+ voltage WHILE CRANKING and do so by USING THE KEY ot crank it. The voltage should be at least 10V and close to "same as battery" while cranking
Then check spark while cranking
BEAR IN MIND there are TWO different ignition switch circuits in play, here. The "ignition run" (key in run, the IGN1 wire) is not ONLY in run. It goes cold in "crank."
The brown bypass circuit, IGN2, is ONLY hot during cranking. This connects the coil direct to the battery, electrically.
It is important to understand the difference For example if you "test" for spark by jumpering the solenoid/ relay, you are not utilizing the bypasss/ IGN2 circuit. If that circuit has a problem, you will not "see" it
