How to properly remove dampener bolt?

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You can also use a steering wheel puller to remove the balancer.

Just back the center bolt out about an inch or so for the foot of the puller to push against.
 
LovetheA's said:
Update on my attempt to remove the crankcase bolt. So I go online and think I’ll just buy the proper tool to do the job. I seen that Mancini has two tools to do this job. So I purchase and spring for the $40.00 bucks for both. Tonight I attempt to use the tool or tools to do the job. Then I realize they won’t work. How can they sell them if you can’t even begin to position them where they need to be? Please see attached photos.
Am I missing something or are they useless based on the location of the crankcase bolt and the recessed position of the bolts due to the the depth of the pulley wheel? I’m so frustrated. The reason I was pulling everything off was to get the cam out so my engine guy could cut a small groove in it for better oiling to my edelbrock performer rpm heads and my Harland sharp roller rockers. At this point I’m thinking it worked before with the same setup except iron 915 heads I don’t think I even have to worry about gettin the cam cut? It’s much more hassle then it’s worth I think. I’d love to get some opinions.
Carl

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Wow, spent $40 on those tool when the Harbor Freight Electric Impact Gun is only $45:popcorn:
 
take the pulley off, its not captive with the balancer bolt. I used a breaker bar swung against the driver rail and the starter. Bump it and itll come free. As for the balancer, get a remover. Free at Autozone: thread the 3 bolts into the threaded pulley holes and use the slender jack screw with the little foot on the bottom to find the base of the crank hole and start turning. Itll pull off before you know it. If you cant get the crank to stay put, put a box head wrench on a convertor bolt and run it up to some interference to hols the crank steady or better, pull the pan and put a deep 1/2 socket into a balance hole on the crank and rotate it to the passenger oil pan rail
 
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I see that someone referenced an impact gun for $40.00. If that’s the case I may of considered an impact gun. I just thought for $40.00 all you get is a cheap Chinese knock off that isn’t durable and I thought you needed additional hardware to run one? Like an air compressor that can handle the gun specific psi and hoses etc. If that is the case then you’re into it for much more than $40.00. Maybe I’m thinking wrong?
 
LovetheA's said:
I see that someone referenced an impact gun for $40.00. If that’s the case I may of considered an impact gun. I just thought for $40.00 all you get is a cheap Chinese knock off that isn’t durable and I thought you needed additional hardware to run one? Like an air compressor that can handle the gun specific psi and hoses etc. If that is the case then you’re into it for much more than $40.00. Maybe I’m thinking wrong?
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I used an impact gun for the iorst time recently , on a cam change. Made me wish my balancer bolt was longer, but no problems.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Maybe we could get a member in his area to help? I mean this with all the respect possible......but if you cannot get the balancer off after all this time, what makes you think you can do the rest? It's a serious question. I mean no offense at all. None of us knows how to do everything, but removing a balancer is an easy process......and the first main thing you have to do for this job and yet here you are.

I am almost certain there's a member in your area. Maybe post in general and ask to see if someone might could come over and give you a hand? I am sure if you threw some food and beer at them they'd be happy to. You could learn something and get a new friend in the process.
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I can help !
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impact will work even with a pancake compressor but only for 1 bolt at a time. Its a bulky item to buy for 1 bolt. Try the deep socket wedged in the crank balancer hole method, rock solid and no head to reinstall.
 
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