Alternator question
Ok even more confused now. So this is a 67 style alternator, MP elec ignition and 70+ style vr?
No tester at parts store.
I agree those " things" appear to he sunk in a bit.
Now with alternator out of the car there is no continuity between alt case and batt stud.
Sorry frustrated as duck, I was hoping for a quick test on this alternator. Always something fuckin electrical with this *****.
Regulator.........no it is an electronic VERSION of the old style.........exactly what belongs on there for a replacement
There should not be continuity with the + probe of the meter on the stud and the neg probe on the case. "I think" if you turn the leads around there will be continuity. All that would show, if continuity in both meter lead directions, is that it is shorted, but the smoke and fire LOL would have already told you that. YOU REMEMBER that problem, doncha? LOL?
WHAT YOU would be trying to accomplish:
By feeding the alternator field and running on the car, you are just trying to run down what it might be. By feeding the field power with a clip lead, you are eliminating all the field wiring and the regulator.
By jumpering direct from alternator stud to the battery, you are eliminating all the wiring between.
If it still jumps around or charges and quits, or doesn't charge, THEN at that point you can be sure it's the alternator
REPLACEMENT: If you don't care so much about "restore correct" appearance, the 73/ or so and later alternators so called "square back" are a better unit. They have two field connections, all you need to do is ground one and hook it up like your old unit.
