Finally found the cause of my overheating

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When upgrading the alternator to 60+ amps change the charge wire to 8 gauge and go straight to the battery or starter thus bypassing the ammeter.

Why bypass the ammeter you say ?
Because it will fail in time and leave you in tenny shoe mode . Quick fit move the wires to only one lug of the ammeter .

Better fix install a shunt across the ammeter.
But It also can melt the bulkhead connector.

Install a volt meter .

See the link above in post #20 for blinking headlights for more info.
 
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When upgrading the alternator to 60+ amps change the charge wire to 8 gauge and go straight to the battery or starter thus bypassing the ammeter.

Why bypass the ammeter you say ?
Because it will fail in time and leave you in tenny shoe mode . Quick fit move the wires to only one lug of the ammeter .

Better fix install a shunt across the ammeter.
But It also can melt the bulkhead connector.

Install a volt meter .

See the link above in post #20 for blinking headlights for more info.

If you run a direct wire from alternator to battery- use the correct sized fuseable link in the mix. If something went sideways it will keep the electrical from really melting down. As for delete amp gauge. - I agree. The bulk head connector is a dirty spot. Always a bad connection point after 50 years. If you by pass the gauge you will have less problems. Run a separate gauge and mount it somewhere and have piece of mind.
 
If this were the case it would end up draining the battery while driving and end up stalling the engine.

NOT in the case of an undersized (amp rating) alternator for his power demands. Loads would just not work at peak efficiency (possibly intermittently), but vehicle would not die. If he turned it off, it may not restart.
 
So, I did verify it was an electrical issue with the gauge, temp can get over 210F with high ambient temps and stop and go traffic. However, I started having more gremlins, and was "losing" 2V somewhere. It was three different circuits causing the voltage drop. I decided to stop "dic*ing" around and fix all of the underdash wiring. The engine harness was replaced last winter. Thanks for the help!
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What DemonRacer said - everyone should have one in their tool box ! It solved an issue I had with my 65 Dodge wagon.....said hot-hot on the gauge....but you could pull of the cap and stick your finger in the radiator.
 
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