need some advice, running 3/8" fuel line, how to run, what to use

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You guys know there are flexable rubber fuel lines made for fuel inj. hi/pressure and any kind of fuel now, that`s even accepted for the nhra, don`t you? All u need to do is run it away from any heat and away from anything that will explode. Nothing on the firewall either.

Yup. Inside the frame rail tucked up.
 
Just run some ptfe hose and call it good. Easy to route, cheaper than stainless hard line, and will last a long time.
 
You can buy it buy the foot for $3.50 or less. There's no need to buy a whole 25' roll.

Then let’s see your current source at that price, the brand of hose you’re using, and tell us how many feet you actually needed.

Might as well throw in the cost of the proper connectors and hose straps while you’re at it.
 
yeah the 38" stainless doesn't bend nice. I have several sets of benders. Yesterday I went and grabbed a 3/8" spring and a big bender with several dies. If I slide the spring on and use the bender, it seems to keep the integrity of the tubing wall. I tested it with a scrap of the line that I had from our first blunder.

That being said, $100 from summit or the other vendors, even with the exchange rate, seems like a better deal than screwing up another line.
The 3/8" stainless 'will" bend nice w/ the right kind of benders. I bent a fair amount of it in my last job, working for the water dept . if IT AIN`T WORKING FOR U , U NEED TO CHANGE SOMETHING !
 
Here are some pictures of how I ran 3/8 aluminum fuel line and the same size return on my 68 Barracuda.

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That's the conclusion I came to. It's not like there's a couple bends, there's quite a few. And when the line starts taking on a 3 dimension shape with the bends not all occurring in one plane it gets complicated. Then you test fit, adjust bends, add more, by the time you've made the whole line the time spent doing it is probably worth the cost of the pre-bent line. At least it was for me.

I'm not a fan of running soft lines, the fuel additives change enough that you can't always count on a soft line's long term resistance to the fuel. And there's different qualities out there, even with just the 3/8" sections of rubber line at either end of the hard line I've had issues. I just had the 6" section of line between the sender and the hard line split, it was only 5 or 6 years old.

I figure the stainless hard line will last as long as I have the car, it won't rust, the fuel won't ever attack it, and I only have to buy and install it once.
true on the stainless,
New cars don`t have many problems w/ the new rubber stuff made for fuel inj., there is good stuff out there! A complete f.a.s.t. fuel inj. set up comes w/ the good stuff .
That looks pretty nice, but scary to someone like me that`s had
Man - that’s sweet, nice and clean! Love it!
pretty, but scary: trans. explosions, and driveshaft disintegration at 128mph cuts slicks and tears the hell out of everything under there.., why I put most of mine inside the frame rails and connectors, w/ exception of the return ,it`s braided ptfe .
 
, but scary: trans. explosions, and driveshaft disintegration at 128mph cuts slicks and tears the hell out of everything under there.., why I put most of mine inside the frame rails and connectors, w/ exception of the return ,it`s braided ptfe .

True. We’ve got our fuel pump and filters tucked up and protected/shielded. 2 drive shaft loops, SFI trans case and SFI bellhousing. The lines as best protected as possible (not inside though ).
 
Agree. Even the PTFE stuff isn’t too expensive anymore.

AN Hose - PTFE Lined - Bio-Fuel Fluid Type

The fittings can be a PIA. Just get the right tool.

I think that's the route I'm going to go. Run right from the tank to the mech fuel pump with 6 AN. I'm running a 408 stroker so the HP will be around the 500 ponies if I'm lucky. IF I need to run an electric fuel pump I can add 2 feet at the tank to the pump and just move the line to the regulator off the mech pump and then to the fuel rail. Sound about right?
 
I think that's the route I'm going to go. Run right from the tank to the mech fuel pump with 6 AN. I'm running a 408 stroker so the HP will be around the 500 ponies if I'm lucky. IF I need to run an electric fuel pump I can add 2 feet at the tank to the pump and just move the line to the regulator off the mech pump and then to the fuel rail. Sound about right?

Sounds about right! I’d use a pre and post filter on the electric pump as well.
 
Then let’s see your current source at that price, the brand of hose you’re using, and tell us how many feet you actually needed.

Might as well throw in the cost of the proper connectors and hose straps while you’re at it.

I've shopped around, I'm $120 plus shipping to get 3/8 stainless. I can get about 16' of 6 an for the same price. Yes, I have to buy a few fittings, but the way I see it, it's worth it. I already mangled one stainless line. If I need to modify the set up I can do it easily. A stainless line would have to be modified with an expensive tool and buy fittings too.
 
I've shopped around, I'm $120 plus shipping to get 3/8 stainless. I can get about 16' of 6 an for the same price. Yes, I have to buy a few fittings, but the way I see it, it's worth it. I already mangled one stainless line. If I need to modify the set up I can do it easily. A stainless line would have to be modified with an expensive tool and buy fittings too.

You may want to check out anfittingsdirect.com. The hose and fittings are good quality and very affordable.
 
I've shopped around, I'm $120 plus shipping to get 3/8 stainless. I can get about 16' of 6 an for the same price. Yes, I have to buy a few fittings, but the way I see it, it's worth it. I already mangled one stainless line. If I need to modify the set up I can do it easily. A stainless line would have to be modified with an expensive tool and buy fittings too.

Good plan. Yes - AN fittings are more expensive. But as you said, you’ve got flexibility in modifications and they are sturdy, safe and should outlast the vehicle.

For ptfe fittings, I’d watch some YouTube videos on how to affix them. Kind of a pain in the *** but not bad.

At Summits pricing I figure you can get 16”, 4 fittings shipped (over $100 no shipping cost in US) around 150 or less USD. Not sure on shipping to Canada

Oh - the PFTE hose isn’t as flexible as old rubber hose of course. So you just have to be patient and mock up how you want to run it

Good luck!
 
I'm going through this right now. I'm using a combo of aluminum hardline and Earls new line of UltraPro PTFE hose, not cheap at about $10 a foot for -8 stuff. the fittings add up at $25 a piece for 90's & 45's, straights are $10.

I'm learnin as I go here, it ain't perfect but hopefully it'll get the fuel where it needs to end up. lol

starting at the fuel cell, an Aeromotive 20 gal stealth 340 in tank pump:

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Then coming underneath the car with some bulkhead fittings and a couple 90's.

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then into unions to meet with the hard line:

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more unions to flex line:

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over the top of the frame connector into the through-the-frame fitting:

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I just gotta install the engine and figure out where the rest is gonna mount once I got the carb on the engine.
 
that's tidy. The whole car too. The only thing some guys may tell you, and I'm only learning right now too, is that your fuel line can't run on the inside face of the subframe connector if you plan on racing at the track. NHRA rule I guess.

I'm going to install everything in the next day or so. I'm doing a street build, so just a mechanical fuel pump at the moment, and from what everyone says around here, a return line isn't necessary as we don't get the hot temps in Alberta. I did find a great part that just arrived today in the mail. I found an aluminium frame thru bulkhead (up to 3" so it should work), from Pure Choice motorsports part number 5910.

I got everything from anfittingsdirect.com. They are WAY cheaper than what I had to choose from around here. They definatly don't have the same diameter that the others do, but from what I've been told is they are decent lines.
 
The only thing some guys may tell you, and I'm only learning right now too, is that your fuel line can't run on the inside face of the subframe connector if you plan on racing at the track. NHRA rule I guess.

I found an aluminium frame thru bulkhead (up to 3" so it should work), from Pure Choice motorsports part number 5910.

Thanks. I remember reading that. I think by the time my fuel lines reach that point, I'm already on the other side of the frame rail. I'll find out one day. lol

This is another through the frame fitting from a company I found in Arizona, although I went with their stainless option, and I had them machine the head down to .200" to give a little more room since our frame is about 2 & 3/8" thick.

-8 THRU THE FRAME RAIL IN ALUMINUM OVERRUN - AMP, Al Mooradian Performance, Cherry Stainless Fittings, Holley, Edelbrock
 
$10!!! and 8 AN, god damn. I gotta get a few of those. Need to find a US friend that will let me ship em to their place and then ship em to me in Canada to avoid all the bs import and brokerage fees
 
I'd check to make sure none of the lines are at, or below, the lowest point of the "frame". Kind of looks like a small problem in this photo.
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I'd check to make sure none of the lines are at, or below, the lowest point of the "frame". Kind of looks like a small problem in this photo. View attachment 1715214172
Ya know, it's right at the frame rail, but not lower.

This is where I'm at right now, coming off the fuel filter going into the dual feed carb line. Is it okay if I come off the back of the feed with a 90deg. fitting then go into the fuel pressure regulator?

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