Torsion bars

ok but on a streeter,
I really really like my 1.03 bars and accompanying big sway bar. Plus they allow me to run a little closer to the lower bumpstop. My car is much more predictable when is operating in Go-cart mode, that is to say skidding sideways planted on the stop, and steering with gaspedal, Wahoooooooo, here we gooooooo !
I don't care what anybody says about BFGs, they slide real nice.lol.
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But you guys are right, the big bars and tight shocks are terrible for straightline work at the track, as attested to by my 93mph 1/8ths, with dismal mid 2.4second 60fts; Zero weight transfer, zero hook. And still spinning at 50,60,70 and some say all the way to the traps, and attested to by the tach stuck on 7000; that makes it hard to know when to shift lol. Turns out it didn't matter, cuz the power peak on this combo is at about 5200/5400, so shifting at 7000, with .78 splits, just increased the power at the shift,lol.
Unlike some/most guys who short shift and the power falls off, sometimes drastically. Score triple smiles from the GVOD operating in split-shift mode!
Off track? not me..... well maybe just a little ,lol.
The point is the same; application, application, application.

Do you have to change the bars? NO.
At least not until you decide what to do with the car.
But be advised, as someone else said, the factory undersprung these cars.
Even my one-year-old 70 Swinger340/833. And IMO, the only thing that saved that car, and me, were those slippery Polyglass GTs. And the worse thing about those was that they were hard to wear out. And believe me I trued!! That was a wicked evil handling sob of a car, on those tires. My high-school nick-name soon became "ditcher" ,as we were often seen cresting the shoulder from the bottom side. But there was never a shortage of thrill-seeking passengers at lunch-time, and the cost of admission was just gas-money.