Please help with my 2010 Ram 2500 4x4 steering.

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Clelan

Clelan

Inferno Red Duster
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2010 Ram 2500 Cummins Crew Cab 4x4. The front tires were real bad and cupped too. Passengers side way worse than drivers side but both tires will need to be replaced.
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I am going to replace what needs to be replaced but not sure what that is. The truck still drives fine on the highway except the passenger tire is loud and shaky now.
I see the boots on the tie rod ends are cracked so I'll replace those. The track bar seems tight when I pry on the ends with a bar. Should i replace it anyway? King pins appear tight as do the wheel bearings. I don't want to cheap out and wreck a new set of tires but I don't need to replace parts that are still good either. Anyone have experience with this?

Cley
 
From 4 wheeler...…….
Cupping: Aggressive off-pavement treads have more of a chance to "cup"-that is, to make uneven high and low spots across the face of the tread-than, say, a performance street tread. Tread design plays a major role here, and the more aggressive the tire is, the more cupping may take place. The fault is usually the lack of sufficient tire control by the shock absorbers. The more aggressive the tread is, the more it wants to skip and hop across the road surface. Tire balance, and again worn suspension components-including loose wheel bearings-will contribute to this.
 
I found that my king pins have at least 1/8" play up and down. I'm sure that's not right. The tie rod ends on my drag link are very loose when I twist the link. Tie rod seems nice and tight. Track bar seems nice and tight. Bearings feel good. I think I'll just do the drag link and the king pins. Not sure. Don't want to half ask this but don't want to waste money either.

Cley
 
I assume when you say King pins you mean Ball Joints? King pins and bushings were used in straight axles. If your knuckles have play than yes you need to replace the BJ's.
 
Get the service manual in inspect the ball joints the correct way. On some of them they are supposed to have movement. From the looks of that tire it looks to me more like shocks, lack of rotating them and tire balance. That's an aggressive tire tread for a street driven vehicle so it will chop easy. That thing is heavy and needs the correct tires.
 
do both tires look the same or just the one ,if both tires are worn the toe setting could be way out of specs also what everyone else said.
 
Both tires are worn in the same way but the drivers side is not near as bad. I'll look at shocks too. I've used way more aggressive tires before and not had this problem, but these Coopers aren't the best from my experience so far so maybe. I get no bounce from the shocks but they are original with 150000 miles on them so I guess I better change them too.

Cley
 
Also weight in the rear of the bed area ( especially one side or the other- not balanced) will tend to lift the nose upwards or "push" thru corners and "scallop" the tires. But worn out front end part replacement and a good alignment / tire rotation will also help. Those tires are bad and will not return to square.

In all my dodge trucks, I rotate tires every 12,000miles. Stay up on alignments and tire pressures.
I've got a few- all business trucks (30-40k per year in mileage, gas and diesel)

Good luck,
Joe
 
im not sure but I think there is a recall on the front suspension on 2008-2010 ram 2500 trucks, call the dealer and have them check for recalls first ,,,
 
I have to agree with daves69 it's the tread pattern, the block tread pattern wear the blocks at an angle and there is no way out, you can rotate them every 2500 miles turn them around so they go the other direction but they still wear that way and they get real noisy, load noisy. I wont put them on my trucks at all, rib tread only and I get 3x the mileage out of them. If everything is tight align it and put new tires on it.
 
70duste said:
im not sure but I think there is a recall on the front suspension on 2008-2010 ram 2500 trucks, call the dealer and have them check for recalls first ,,,
Click to expand...
Yea there was a recall on the right tie rod end. If it is a clamp style where the steering shock connects it gets replaced with the type that has a hole in it and the clamp gets thrown away. Call a dealer and give then the last nine of your VIN they can check it that way so you don't even have to go in.
 
also check for sagging rear springs this will take weight off the front end and allow for bouncing on the front/ had this type of problems on ferd ambulances rear spring sagged and needed replacement every 10,000 miles
 
Rear springs are good. I barely haul anything with the truck. never should have bought the 3/4 ton. I'll get the known bad parts replaced and let you all know how it turns out.

Cley
 
Make sure you have an alignment and make them give you a copy of the numbers they come up with. Tell them ahead of time you need a copy or you won't get it from them.
Besides the cupping issue, you have more tread remaining on the right edge than on the left edge, as viewed in your picture. Either camber or toe is off, but that should be a solid front axle so only toe is adjustable. If that tire is the left front, and left side of picture is outside of tire, then it likely needs to be toed out a little to help it.
 
Turns out my lower ball joints were really bad, my upper ball joints were pretty bad, the drag link ends were loose but everything else was like new. I wish I had checked this before my tires went to hell.

Cley
 
The way the tires are wore indicates worn out suspension components which im sure you already know lol, it would have wore the tires that way regardless of tread pattern however it tends to be more pronounced with aggressive tread tires
 
It was a big job but its back together now. Now I can get back to making my Duster run a bit better time. I only got 3 more street legal sundays for the year!

Cley
 
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