I have to buy a boring car.

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Subaru Outback is a good choice as well. Not quite the reliabilty or mpg of the Honda though.
 
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Used Chrysler 300C. I bought one 2 years ago for long hours of commuting and love it. I only paid $17k for a 5 year old one at CarMax. They also make AWD versions.

Oh yeah, and it has a Hemi. :D

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3 years ago I bought my first 4 banger. It is a 2010 Elantra with a 5 speed that I picked up for 4000 Canadian. It had less than 100,000 KM at the time ( 60,000 Miles ). For me the grocery store is a 60 mile ( 100 KM) round trip. It has been fun to drive with the 5 speed and very reliable. I have only had to do front brakes this spring and regular oil changes since. It starts first shot every time even at -40 and not plugged in, save the plug in for the Ramcharger.
The only thing I do not like is it is very tail happy in the snow at highway speed.
It has paid for itself in fuel mileage twice over. I will buy another one when this one is dead but as it is now that won`t be for 5 years or more.
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this would be my suggestion. IF you are going to spend a lot of time sitting in the car (or spend a lot of your life there :) ), why not take a small cut in fuel for comfort and enjoyment. Something like an AWD charger or AWD Challenger with a 3.6 V6. Plenty of power, style, comfort, and mpg should be in the upper twenties... 27 mpg?? AWD would serve in the snow as well. Also, 4000+ lbs car should offer safety as well.

Don't get the title... "I HAVE to buy a boring car".. :D
 
this would be my suggestion. IF you are going to spend a lot of time sitting in the car (or spend a lot of your life there :) ), why not take a small cut in fuel for comfort and enjoyment. Something like an AWD charger or AWD Challenger with a 3.6 V6. Plenty of power, style, comfort, and mpg should be in the upper twenties... 27 mpg?? AWD would serve in the snow as well. Also, 4000+ lbs car should offer safety as well.

Don't get the title... "I HAVE to buy a boring car".. :D

If I get a charger it’s going to be a V8. I have seriously considered that but my budget is around $700 including fuel. I’ll be driving between 500 and 1000 miles a week.
 
Also, as an FYI...my 300 C gets 28-30 mpg highway average and 20 mpg around town.
 
If you are driving 1000 miles a week, buy a cheap jap car, because in two years time whatever you buy will have no re-sale value.
 
If you are driving 1000 miles a week, buy a cheap jap car, because in two years time whatever you buy will have no re-sale value.

I’m thinking of doing just that and dealing with a boring car and putting the extra money into my bank account for the dart. I have three more weeks to make this decision so I’ll just shop around and actually drive a few cars.
 
I’m thinking of doing just that and dealing with a boring car and putting the extra money into my bank account for the dart. I have three more weeks to make this decision so I’ll just shop around and actually drive a few cars.
I would either buy new, or find something that is clean and under 20K miles.
 
Also you might get a better interest rate if buying new, something else to consider.
 
Buying new a new car to drive in the winter in a 'salt' state is not a very good investment.
 
Buying new a new car to drive in the winter in a 'salt' state is not a very good investment.

Not any different than buying a used car besides the fact that it won’t have any rust until I sell it. People always talk about the rust belt but as long as you wash your car often in the winter then you shouldn’t have anything to worry about for the first 10-20 years.
 
Dodge Dart 2.0 automatic. I bought a 2015 and I love it. And I paid 8600 with only 30,000 miles
 
Not any different than buying a used car besides the fact that it won’t have any rust until I sell it. People always talk about the rust belt but as long as you wash your car often in the winter then you shouldn’t have anything to worry about for the first 10-20 years.

First 10 to 20 years?? Washing a car regularly in the winter won’t keep the rust at bay for the first 10 to 20 years. Doing any work (ie: brakes) on a car that’s had multiple winters, even when washed regularly, results in stripped bolts and frustration. But that’s to be expected in the rust belt.
 
First 10 to 20 years?? Washing a car regularly in the winter won’t keep the rust at bay for the first 10 to 20 years. Doing any work (ie: brakes) on a car that’s had multiple winters, even when washed regularly, results in stripped bolts and frustration. But that’s to be expected in the rust belt.

Been living here my whole life and I have changed countless brakes. Never in my life have I stripped a bolt doing a break job. I’ve never known anything besides Ohio winters so it doesn’t bother me.
 
I agree. My lil Toyota was 10+ years ild with just under 200k on it and made it through many rough heavily salted winters here in nj and no bolts were rusty or hard to get out.

Hell my 2000 Cherokee lived its whole life here in jersey and isn’t rusty.
 
Bought the wife a Chry 300 a few years ago with 20000 miles on it. Previous lease car that was year old. V6 awd consistently high 27-30 mpg. Good snow tires for winter goes about everywhere within reason. Change to wheel and tire set for summer. Believe I gave 23 g for it. Has 175000 miles now not a lick of problem. I don't like to stray to far away from Chrysler
 
My ‘14. Challenger gets 27 MPG’s and the ‘15’s get 30 IIRC. The engine I have is 305hp. It does lack low end torque but this SXT does very well on the road. The SXT has all the bigger wheels, R/T suspension and brakes. It handles.

Don’t pigeon hole yourself with “I gotta have a Hemi in my Challenger” even more so when it is a work related vehicle. It makes absolutely no sense to spend more on fuel when you don’t have to. That is just plain stupidity. Getting the car you need not be a painful sacrifice with a 4 banger no option econo box of chit.

Getting a work related vehicle that you spend time in should also include a very comfortable ride and one you want to be in. A little sacrifice in mile is fine. But not at the tune of a gas guzzler.
 
I meant fun to drive.

You'd actually be pretty surprised at how nimble something like a small car can be. Both my Dad's Neon and my Civic hold the road like their on rails with good road feedback and excellent steering wheel input.

That being said, one of the reasons I liked the Hyundai XG350 I had was the fact it was a boring old touring sedan it would handle with good power. Triple digits when it finally fifth it would make your stomach flip. That car surprised a lot of folks all the way around. Gotta beat the bushes to find one, but can still be had for $3k or less in good shape and low mileage and a lot of folks mistake them for Lincolns or Jags.
 
Been living here my whole life and I have changed countless brakes. Never in my life have I stripped a bolt doing a break job. I’ve never known anything besides Ohio winters so it doesn’t bother me.

Do it for a living. Lol

Buy a Sube and keep extra caliper anchor bolts on hand and the torch handy when you have to change rotors.
 
I’m thinking of doing just that and dealing with a boring car and putting the extra money into my bank account for the dart. I have three more weeks to make this decision so I’ll just shop around and actually drive a few cars.
1000 mile per week is a lot of seat time. You want something that is comfortable and quiet.

Exactly the reason I chose the 300C. After a few hours behind the wheel, I don’t arrive home exhausted from being beat up by the road.
 
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