Preventing corrosion during a build?

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Kent mosby

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I will be rebuilding a 440 over the coming months. I showed pics of the inside earlier and someone commented that it looked dry inside. My question is what do you put on the iron parts during a rebuild. I have heard that WD-40 is corrosive, so no go there. I will use assembly lube on the cam etc.. But when you remove a part and have cleaned and degreased, the heads, for example , what do you use to coat the head while it sits on the bench awaiting re-assembly? Sometimes just the humidity in the air will cause surface rust. A spray would be great.
 
Wd-40 has never corroded anything I've sprayed it on.
 
I had not heard about it being corrosive before but I read it on this forum.

Best way to clean and store 8 3/4?

So I thought I would ask for an alternative. It would sure be easier if it was not detrimental to engines. I have 3 cans.
 
WD40 just doesn’t protect very long or as good as other choices.

I use JB-80 by Justice Brothers

Works great on fresh machined surfaces.

7553001-12_24_10Sm06.jpg
 
Any motor oil, gear oil, or even grease wiped on the surfaces occasionally should suffice. If you want to go for long term protection, LPS3 has worked very well for me, it resembles Cosmoline. WD40 evaporates and leaves the surface vulnerable to corrosion at some point. If it is an unheated garage I recommend covering with a blanket or tarp of some sort and run a 30-60W light bulb underneath the cover all the time. The little bit of dry heat will drive away moisture as the humidity changes, especially in the spring when it is cold at night and warming and more humid during the day. Iron sweats and then starts to rust.
 
The reason WD40 evaporates so quickly, is because it's mostly water.
There is no water in WD-40.
WD-40's main ingredients as supplied in aerosol cans, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
  • 50% "aliphatic hydrocarbons". ...
  • <25% petroleum base oil. ...
  • 12–18% low vapor pressure aliphatic hydrocarbon. ...
  • 2–3% carbon dioxide. ...
  • <10% inert ingredients.
 
Fluid film. Anything you use,will have to be cleaned off prior to painting. Better yet, paint then treat with your favorite corrosion preventer.

Perhaps the fogging oil used for boat motor storage.
 
Hmmmmm? :eek: I'll revise my statement to say that it MIGHT AS WELL BE WATER. The < %10 Inert ingredients is probably water. Bottom line is, I wouldn't use it on a rusty bicycle chain because it's crap.
 
we get stuff here in Canada called rust check there's two versions red for shorter term and green its thick and sticky for harsher environments

bottom line good chit .
 
I usually use WD as a cleaner? But I sprayed it on my blocks but I do tend to go back to them every few days.
 
My shop in winter will be kept to at least 50 degrees constantly.
 
Fires don't care what temperature it is they will start. Be careful please!
What I was indicating was that my shop would be kept somewhat warm and not fluctuate creating condensation and thus I would not need a lamp/tarp.
 
What I was indicating was that my shop would be kept somewhat warm and not fluctuate creating condensation and thus I would not need a lamp/tarp.
there are perfectly safe, proven ways to heat/cool a shop to maintain even temp. If I had the money, I'd have built a shop with insulated and hydronic-heated concrete pad. The biggest hazard there would be me falling asleep on the warm concrete pad while working under the car, hahaha.
 
I will be rebuilding a 440 over the coming months. I showed pics of the inside earlier and someone commented that it looked dry inside. My question is what do you put on the iron parts during a rebuild. I have heard that WD-40 is corrosive, so no go there. I will use assembly lube on the cam etc.. But when you remove a part and have cleaned and degreased, the heads, for example , what do you use to coat the head while it sits on the bench awaiting re-assembly? Sometimes just the humidity in the air will cause surface rust. A spray would be great.


I have used WD30 for over 20 years. Never had an issue.
 
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