will new clutch fit bellhousing?

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Dave NEO

Dave NEO

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'68 383 barracuda with '71 A833 - took out old clutch (BB type) that had a 10.5" clutch disk - the old PP appears to measure 10" across the turned surface. Somewhat of a mismatch with disc edges extending a bit beyond the PP turned surface. Bell is 2892513. Want to replace with a RAM 10.9 clutch that comes with a 10.5 disc. The bolt pattern measurements are the same (11 5/8"). Wondering if bellhousing will still fit. Another question is how pressure plate sizes measured - across the turned contact surface or some other diagonal? Any comments much appreciated. am I overthinking this as ususal ?
 
Your car with BB uses the smaller 10/10.5 clutch. Smaller belhousing because of being "A" body.
 
How are you using the 513 in an A-Body?!? Do you have a hydraulic throwout bearing?
 
So you feel new clutch won't fit bell? Is there a 10/10.5 clutch out there with 18 X 1 3/16? have not seen so far- may need another solution.
 
Then what are you using for the bellcrank? The 372 bellhousing is the one that works with the factory bellcrank/spacer/ball bracket. I could never get a 513 to work.
 
The only difference between a 10.5" 513 bell and the orig 10.5" A bb 372 bell is the retainer bore size and 513 is aluminum instead of cast iron. As long as it has the right fork pivot inside, all the BB a-body mechanical linkage will bolt right up correctly.
 
yes - shifted pretty well actually - my concern right now is the bell fitting over the new clutch on the way
 
Well you would know, but I tried it on my 69 Dart over 30 years ago and it wouldn't work. Of course I didn't have the adapter ring but there was something else that wasn't quite right, just can't recall since it has been so long...
 
Dan Brewer said:
The only difference between a 10.5" 513 bell and the orig 10.5" A bb 372 bell is the retainer bore size and 513 is aluminum instead of cast iron. As long as it has the right fork pivot inside, all the BB a-body mechanical linkage will bolt right up correctly.
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well t hat might be reassuring - so why does retainer bore size vary? this stuff new to me obviously, but can retainer be replaced if needed?
 
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Dave NEO said:
well t hat might be reassuring - so why does retainer bore size vary?
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In 68 the 18 splines switched to 308 front bearing making a larger retainer necessary. In 70 the 23 spline a b/e body with 383 also went to the large bearing/retainer.

As long as the retainer matches the bell your fine.
 
thank you sir - we'll see later this week. So it is '71 A833 18 spline, 1 3/16, so larger bearing and retainer likely?
 
used the aluminum 513 bell we had, a RAM 92503 Clutch Kit, new correct z- bar, linkage and clutch fork.. This was interesting- had to get a pilot bushing for a Chevy trans because the input shaft on the A833 had been turned to smaller size to fit a chevy motor. SO.. we got the smaller ID bushing and reduced OD to make it work. Found a '68 Inland shifter and correct adapter. All seems to work very well. BTW -the old clutch was a mismatched PP and disc, disc overlapped the PP. Also pilot bushing was very loose on the input shaft and kinda chewed up: I suppose both contributed to noise I was getting. Anything for me to keep in mind breaking in a new clutch? long time since I had one - seems to grip very quick vs. what was in there and I find myself letting pedal up more slowly.. 3.23 rear-end might come into play here also?.
 
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Clutch break-in the same as brake break-in. Slowly warm up disc. This means using it easily. Drive it- get it good and warm. Do this a couple of times. You are now ready to go for it!
 
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