Take Me To Paint School!

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MrSurly

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Ok, guys, Old man, here. I did some auto painting way back when my brother and I had a shop in the '70s ~'80s. Since that time, *everything* has changed and I am at a loss about where to even start. We were doing base coat/ clear coat at the time but it was long before HVLP, Low VOC paints and of course now there's even water based (!!) auto paints.
I have a project The Yard Dart, a Reclamation. '64 Dart GT Ragtop that I will be blasting, rotisserie, the whole bit. I'm going to do all the work myself, re-learning as I go.
The basic question is, starting with sandblasted steel what would be the *best* primer that I could spray immediately after blasting? My question is not so much concerning the majority of the primer that I will follow up with sanding and repairs, etc, its about the primer that will NOT be removed by other steps, in out of the way areas that will eventually get color applied. Is there a primer that will NOT lift because of whatever paint was applied over it? If you've ever sprayed lacquer over enamel primer, you'll know what I fear. I'm looking for 'universally compatible' primer if it exists. Also, do I need an 'etching' primer?
Thanks in advance
 
Im no paint expert by any means but one thing I can tell you is you want to use a good 2K epoxy primer on bare steel. Keep in mind that most epoxys are not sandable so its best to follow up with some high build within the recoat time specified for the epoxy. If not it can be a real ***** to scuff.
As far as I know you can put just about anything over epoxy without any problems. Just be sure to download spec sheets and read up prior to buying anything.
Harbor freight makes decent hvlp guns if your just doing small stuff. I wouldnt try shooting a whole car with one other than maybe primer.
 
MrSurly said:
Ok, guys, Old man, here. I did some auto painting way back when my brother and I had a shop in the '70s ~'80s. Since that time, *everything* has changed and I am at a loss about where to even start. We were doing base coat/ clear coat at the time but it was long before HVLP, Low VOC paints and of course now there's even water based (!!) auto paints.
I have a project The Yard Dart, a Reclamation. '64 Dart GT Ragtop that I will be blasting, rotisserie, the whole bit. I'm going to do all the work myself, re-learning as I go.
The basic question is, starting with sandblasted steel what would be the *best* primer that I could spray immediately after blasting? My question is not so much concerning the majority of the primer that I will follow up with sanding and repairs, etc, its about the primer that will NOT be removed by other steps, in out of the way areas that will eventually get color applied. Is there a primer that will NOT lift because of whatever paint was applied over it? If you've ever sprayed lacquer over enamel primer, you'll know what I fear. I'm looking for 'universally compatible' primer if it exists. Also, do I need an 'etching' primer?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I wish someone would have sat me down and really advised me not to spray VOC paint. Epoxy primer ( at least the stuff I used) is pretty high VOC.

I will never spray paint or any solvent again. I am lucky I am alive, and lucky to be able to watch my kids at the pool, or go to movies etc.

not to be taken lightly.
 
best practice to pic one system and stick with it. name brand quality mateials. Materials are cheap. labor time that costs $$$
my .02 615 etch prime 7704s primer cromabase all expensive products,but its an 20+ year old system that works.. I have it on my car was originally painted in 90's still looks good. Axalta cromabase works well with or without a perfect booth wide range of humidty excelent color match.
Wear proper resporator its fine. Water bore works well just not as forgiving really need a good booth or low humidity. just pick a name brand follow the TDS it will all work fine.
 
I'm using Tamco base clear and am really happy with the results. I'm no expert, first complete restoration at 66 years old. Lots of utube videos on painting available. Get an old piece of metal and practice getting your gun set and work on your spray pattern before spraying anything on your car.
Best of luck to you
 
torred0319 said:
best practice to pic one system and stick with it. name brand quality mateials. Materials are cheap. labor time that costs $$$
my .02 615 etch prime 7704s primer cromabase all expensive products,but its an 20+ year old system that works.. I have it on my car was originally painted in 90's still looks good. Axalta cromabase works well with or without a perfect booth wide range of humidty excelent color match.
Wear proper resporator its fine. Water bore works well just not as forgiving really need a good booth or low humidity. just pick a name brand follow the TDS it will all work fine.
Click to expand...
For voc paint the only approved respirator that I know of is supplied air.

organic filters are acceptable in very low ppm, and short exposure only.

SCBA or dont spray....
 
rustyswinger said:
For voc paint the only approved respirator that I know of is supplied air.

organic filters are acceptable in very low ppm, and short exposure only.

SCBA or dont spray....
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Excellent advise. SCBA will work but is a little overkill and cumbersome for painting cars. All you need is a supply of fresh air. It doesn't have to be self contained.
 
Bodyperson said:
Excellent advise. SCBA will work but is a little overkill and cumbersome for painting cars. All you need is a supply of fresh air. It doesn't have to be self contained.
Click to expand...
lol I liked the rhyme. the only reason I even know about scba is I went to work for a safety supply company. I can borrow one at any time
 
MrSurly said:
Ok, guys, Old man, here. I did some auto painting way back when my brother and I had a shop in the '70s ~'80s. Since that time, *everything* has changed and I am at a loss about where to even start. We were doing base coat/ clear coat at the time but it was long before HVLP, Low VOC paints and of course now there's even water based (!!) auto paints.
I have a project The Yard Dart, a Reclamation. '64 Dart GT Ragtop that I will be blasting, rotisserie, the whole bit. I'm going to do all the work myself, re-learning as I go.
The basic question is, starting with sandblasted steel what would be the *best* primer that I could spray immediately after blasting? My question is not so much concerning the majority of the primer that I will follow up with sanding and repairs, etc, its about the primer that will NOT be removed by other steps, in out of the way areas that will eventually get color applied. Is there a primer that will NOT lift because of whatever paint was applied over it? If you've ever sprayed lacquer over enamel primer, you'll know what I fear. I'm looking for 'universally compatible' primer if it exists. Also, do I need an 'etching' primer?
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


My advice to you is take an adult education class at your local community college, you can learn the fine art of refinishing an automobile while working on your project at home.

You will get hands on practical training as well as some theory from a competent teacher.

You will get to practice on someones else's ride or they ask you to bring something to practice on. Either way you get to make all your mistakes on something other than your ride.

Some schools bring in painting professionals from the top paint suppliers. Most of these guys are the best refinishing resources you'll find. They are up on the latest paint technologies and paint application techniques.

You might even get to bring in some pieces of your project to work on, which in some cases is a bonus.

NOTE::: Above all please work safe, your family depends on it.

That's my 2 cents for whatever it's worth.

Good Luck with your project!

sscuda
 
rustyswinger said:
I wish someone would have sat me down and really advised me not to spray VOC paint. Epoxy primer ( at least the stuff I used) is pretty high VOC.

I will never spray paint or any solvent again. I am lucky I am alive, and lucky to be able to watch my kids at the pool, or go to movies etc.

not to be taken lightly.
Click to expand...

TRUE. TRUE. TRUE!!!!! I say no one knows how sensitive thy are to these paints, primers, until you shoot some, You absorb it even thru your eyes. It can kill.
Really a fresh air system is required if sensitive, and just stiring a can can get you pretty good if sensitive.
 
I am sensitive the the stuff and have never been able to afford fresh air system, but at age 70 something will kill me, hopefully not the paint!
I response to the OP question. I use TCP Global out of Ca, They have some stuff that is lower VOC and that is good . DTM epoxy will stick to just about anything. Not sandable, or with reducer can be used as sealer. IF yo hve good old paint/primer and NO rust under it, I have sealed it ith This DTH epoxy primer, IF you can get it to bare metal, always better. Prep real good with oil/wax cleaner. I use filler over the epoxy, Then seal with th epoxy, then high build primer. Then seal. then topcoat.
I use a high solids high build urethane primer and seal that with the DTM epoxy reduced.
Prep is the key we all know. You have painted before so you know any blem will show!!
 
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